Big Wave Surfer Jeff Rowley- Taming the T-Rex of Surf

Taming the T-Rex of Surf

Jaws bites - Big wave surfers, Jeff Rowley, Greg Long, Shaun Walsh and Albee Layer ‘paddle-in’ to gigantic 15 metre (50 foot) plus waves at Peahi “Jaws” and cement paddling in as the new frontier in big wave surfing. 

Rowley and friends were on Maui, Hawaii waiting for the monster surf to hit the Peahi, “Jaws” reef and produce the worlds biggest surfable waves.

On one of the biggest waves of the day, Rowley took off underneath the pitching lip of the wave.

“As the wave was coming I knew I was in the right position, I didn’t want to waste any energy paddling just turn around and go”.

“It just picked me up perfectly, It felt like I was riding a magic carpet with my heart in my mouth”.

In doing so Rowley’s ride has skyrocketed into two categories of the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave awards; “Ride of The Year” and “Monster Energy Monster Paddle In”.

“Everything I have worked hard and trained for all my life helped me pull off a ride like this”.

Rowley specialises in Breath Enhancement Training to maximise time underwater without oxygen and maintain calm in extreme situations.

Rowley’s special 10’2” (3 metre) Channel Islands surfboard designed for monster waves, was dubbed by fellow surfers as the ‘Magic Carpet’.

“My board has been hammered by waves and rocks, but I trust it with my life”.

On one of the biggest waves of the day, Rowley suffered a horrific wipeout and was pounded so deep he was forced to pull his emergency inflatable airbag wetsuit with mini scuba tank, to return to the surface.

‘It was like being caught in a giant cement mixer, it pushed me so deep my ears were hurting and I didn’t think I was coming up, I’m lucky I was able to inflate” Rowley said.

Rowley continues his personal ‘Charge For Charity’; a quest to paddle-in to a 50-foot wave and overcome his fears whilst raising money for Breast Cancer Australia.

“I am grateful to everyone who has supported my Charge For Charity, I’m overcoming my fears which are nothing compared to fighting a life threatening disease or illness”.

Rowley remains on Maui with more giant surf forecast in the coming weeks.

The 2011/12 XXL awards will be announced on Friday May 4 2012 in Anaheim, California.

To donate to Rowley’s Charge For Charity, visit http://www.jeffrowley.com or Everyday Hero for details.