Snowboard Edge Angle Questions… Help
You don’t “mess up” your board if you know what you’re doing. That’s why Lester’s asking all the right questions.
Cars need tuning too - but if you don’t know how to do it yourself, you take it to someone who does. Same goes here.
A 1 degree base bevel is perfectly fine, however the first time I tune a board, I alter the side bevel to change the industry standard 90 degrees to 88 or 89.
a lot of the articles around the web say to detune hard around the tip and tail and just a light detune +/- 1 inch around the contact points. I guess if you were gonna carve and just carve you could skip the light de-tune at the contact points.
Maybe they mean to taper your detune into the contact points? That’s what I do.
i guess that’s effectively it - more detune at the tip/tail and less at the contact points. How far past the contact point do you detune yours, chucky?
Imagine a board’s contact points are the face of a clock. If 9.00 is the nose of the board, 12.00 would be the front toeside contact point (for a regular rider). From 7.30 to 10.30, my edge is literally rounded - then it tapers to ‘slightly dull’ at 11.55. Between there and 12.05 it starts to become ‘sharpish’ (transitioning on the 12.00 mark), then at 12.15 it’s ‘razor sharp’ all the way to 11.45 on the arc of the rear contact points. Same goes for each of the other 3 contact points.
I also factor in the overall bevel angle into that - so at 12.00 it’s 90 degrees, tapering to 88 or 89 degrees (depending on the board) at 12.30ish.
The most important thing to consider is that your board shouldn’t be sharp enough to engage an edge anywhere between 6.00 and 12.00 on the nose of your board (vice versa for the tail) - but the exact point after that where it really sharpens up is up to the individual.
That make sense?
yeah, mate, that’s pretty much what I am planning to do to mine once I scrape all the summer wax off next season. In terms if your 11:55 to 12:05, what does that equate to in cm?
Also that’s a pretty sophisticated set-up with a graduated bevel as well as sharpness - nice one.
For me, there’s only about 3cm max between ‘sharpish’ at the contact points (12.00) and ‘razor sharp’ in between.
id reccomend leave it at the angle it is at right now and just ride…
. . . yeah, and while you’re at it, never bother waxing your board either - that’s for suckers too.
that would be a highly stupid thing to do wouldn’t it…
id reccomend leave it at the angle it is at right now and just ride…
. . . yeah, and while you’re at it, never bother waxing your board either - that’s for suckers too.
that would be a highly stupid thing to do wouldn’t it…
Ummmmmmmm, yeah, that’s my point.
You don’t have to tune your base for your board to be rideable - you can “leave it . . . and just ride” - it just won’t perform as well.
Same goes for your edges. You don’t have to tune your edges for your board to be rideable - you can “leave it . . . and just ride” - it just won’t perform as well.
Some people are content with mediocrity, but others want more.
@chucky: Cuz most ppl ended up messing up their board. Unless you’re always hitting rails or do GS slalom type race, I don’t think you should change the default 1 degree bevel.
I’m not planning on changing the 1 degree base edge the only thing I might do is increase the side edge for additional edge hold if i need it and possibly detune or increase bevel edge by the tips and tail to prevent the edge from engaging none intentionally
id reccomend leave it at the angle it is at right now and just ride…
. . . yeah, and while you’re at it, never bother waxing your board either - that’s for suckers too.
that would be a highly stupid thing to do wouldn’t it…
Ummmmmmmm, yeah, that’s my point.
so i see
I always de-tune about from about 10mm (12:03 on Chucky’s Clock) into the effective edge, and then all of the way around the nose/tail!!!!!
By havin a starting point it will already be a gradual shape that transitions into the completely dulled area!!!!!
At the very pinnacle of the contact point it will be rounded, so as to make that point catch-free!!!!!
Just like playin around with binding angles/stance width, different types of waxes and hell, even tryin different shapes/profile/brand/tech in snowboards is no different to playin around with ya edges!!!!! Ya just have to keep in mind that there is no goin back when ya take too much metal off those suckers, so it’s best to either take it easy, or play around on an old board first!!!!!
I always de-tune about from about 10mm (12:03 on Chucky’s Clock) into the effective edge, and then all of the way around the nose/tail!!!!!
Don’t forget to factor in daylight savings when you’re tuning edges over the summer.
Depends what state ya in!!!!!
- Sleep Deprivation
- Chemical Imbalance
- Alcoholic Inebriation
- Drug induced coma
- Queensland
id reccomend leave it at the angle it is at right now and just ride…
. . . yeah, and while you’re at it, never bother waxing your board either - that’s for suckers too.
that would be a highly stupid thing to do wouldn’t it…
Ummmmmmmm, yeah, that’s my point.
so i see
Dang, I don’t wax my board either… I going to sit this one out.