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Hahah no worries :D
Ok so got my board tuned by Yohan from underground tuning. It’s no longer catchy. So I’m guessing it’s either the burrs or the edge bevel that makes it catchy. Yohan also told me another thing that may factor in the catchiness is that apparently my stance is set back on a centered board, I have 1 inch longer nose than tail (maybe it’s because my stance is 20.75 inch wide which makes it hard to have the bindings totally centered). He said, due to the camber profile it can make the board catchy if it’s not centered.
He most likely de-tuned the contact points?????
Do you do ya boards when ya get them?????
And re the centred stance!!!!! I’m sure I mentioned this about someone else’s board in another thread????? The reference points on the board are there for a reason!!!!!
Nah I detuned the contact points before. The catchiness is usually near the front foot toe edge near the tip (like I mentioned before) but also the back foot toe edge. Ya I recentered my stance (roughly, cuz I didn’t bring my tape measure, in Whis right now) so hopefully it’s better now.
Ya shouldn’t need a tape measure?????
Why shouldn’t I need a tape measure? My board doesn’t have a ref stance and I also need the tape to measure my stance width.
if its a centred board, if you put it on the matching set of screw holes that would make it centred.
Why would you measure out your stance? I mean wouldn’t you just run it off the corresponding screw holes at each end of the board?
There is no reference mark on my board. Because with 20.75 inch stance you have to slide the bindings back and forth to make it exact (some bindings like NOW and YES have “sliders” so you can move your bindings side to side without having to take em off, just loosen the screw).
YES Binders????? You mean Burton?????
Most binders will have lateral adjustment, but if you mirror any adjustments it will be centered!!!!!
What board do u have Skip?
If it’s a true twin it should be easy to have a centered stance. Like Deano said, just make sure you use the same bolt holes either side.
ei. If you put the bindings on the furthest out bolt holes on the front, then the back binding should also be on the furthest out holes. If you have them one bolt hole away from the nose then you should also have them one bolt hole away from the tail etc.
And then if you are going to turn your binding discs sideways for finer adjustments, just make sure you do the same thing again. If it’s 2 notches more towards the nose, then it should be 2 notches more towards the tail.
Just be aware that you should ONLY turn your discs sideways for fine adjustments, IF you have equal toe and heel overhang when they are in that position. It’s actually pretty rare to have a perfect match of board and boots that will allow this. I’ve only owned one board that let me do this.
Having the right toe and heel overhang is WAY more important than a slightly wider or narrower stance.
Sorry I meant to say union. Ya union and NOW lateral adjustment is like a slider system compared to Burton is more like holes. It’s hard to explain ujnless you see it yourself. But I still don’t get what you’re trying to say Mizu haha.
@Andy: It’s a Never Summer Proto HD. I get what you mean. But if I adjust it equally like that I will not get the stance I want.
I would favour a centered (even in relation to reference point) stance, rather than be out by a 1/4 of an inch on a preferred stance width!!!!!
I could put money on ya not even noticin much of a difference even with an inch either way to what ya used to!!!!!
And like Andy said, I’ve never used lateral adjustments cause heel toe hang is the number one concern!!!!!
I’ve never had a problem with toe and heel drag so I always set my disk for the lateral adjustments.