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Hey spaz, cheers for all that advice and information i will definately take it all on board
Like you say I will probably use it to get surf fit more than anything and just get used to being out there and learn the ocean a bit.
I most likely wont give up trying, im pretty persistant. My only downfall is sometimes i can be pretty impatient, and with surfing this is totally not the mind set to have. For me it would be easy to just take my playboating kayak out there instead and catch every wave i want and pull tricks on it too. But i do want to get more into all aspects of surfing, so i will take on your advice and keep giving it a crack. Cheers
Yeh thanks Mizu, i think i have previously been to far back on the board. Will make sure its right next time im out.
Mizu im thinkin of gettin a new board and I want you to make up a mad patten, only cause you have so much time on your hands lol. Cause I put another ding in me board and its just getting thrashed. I wanna get a fish like yours
Yer sounds good ill have a look at a few and see what I like…..
I’ve now added a 8’ softboard to my quiver. Pink with White hibiscus flowers - no kidding
Go the softboard! I haven’t ridden one myself but the way the surf is down here alot of the time it would probably be handy haha
I’m currently riding a 7’3” minimal, looking to step down to something shorter soon though as i am getting competent crossing the face and stuff on it. No cutbacks or anything like that yet though!
You guys think I should stay on the minmal for a bit longer or find something shorter for bigger days?
Get a shortboard. Having different boards will broaden your ability and teach you fine aspects of what makes a surfboards work.
I use my minimal often on bigger days. Minimals generally have a short board tail with a mal nose so in big waves they can ride very well.
I choose what board to ride depending on wave shape, not size. But on small waves everything happens faster so a shortboard can allow you to perform better in small waves as they react.
Do you think something like a 6’6” fish would be a good option? just thinking something with a bit of volume to it. I am a bit over 6ft tall about 80-85kg from memory.
East coast gets pretty steep when its bigger, north coast is just big rollers most of the time which is the more visited coast merely because its closer!
East coast gets pretty steep when its bigger, north coast is just big rollers most of the time which is the more visited coast merely because its closer!
This is a very average statement (although generally true)
The steep waves of the east coast are caused due to being surfed mostly at lower tides, the shorter fetch that generate southerly swell and a steep “step” close to the shore line. When cyclonic swell is pushed as far as Sydney and further south they are wonderful big rollers.
Same goes for breaks that work on higher tides or have a long sand bottom.
Ground swell (with a wave period greater than 8sec) are referred to as rollers.
Wind swell (under 8sec) - messy.
A period over 10sec will turn a 3’ swell into a 5-6 foot wave face.
15-20sec is Hawaiian big wave territory.
The best indicator of wave quality is “period”> North coast is exposed to longer period swell with a greater fetch.
This will make them easier to ride but harder to paddle into. A shorter board is easier manoeuvre but harder to paddle.
An example of this is Tow-in, they use 5’ almost solid glass boards (not much foam) on monster waves. To paddle into the same waves they would use a 9’, 3” thick gun.
Choosing what board for you will depend on how powerful your paddling arms are.
Simon Anderson won 20’ Bells on a 6 foot thruster, while everyone else rode Hawaiian guns. He was about your size and weight but the most influential shaper that ever lived.
Looking at ordering this: http://store-0c171.mybigcommerce.com/products/6’6-x-21-1{47}4-x-2-3{47}4-=-40.5L-Diverse-Surfboard.html haven’t found a rounded square tail for cheap yet!
These guys do free postage to anywhere in aus!
Thanks for the info, I probably didn’t use correct terminology. What I meant with the north coast is that it is always fat wind swell/sloppy waves.
Got some good waves last Saturday on the east coast, was stormy and raining all morning and then the wind suddenly turned off shore, amazing the difference that it made. Unfortunately I did not take any pics! Had a fair bit of trouble paddling out on the minimal as the bigger ones where in the 4-5ft range. Spent ages paddling out in what I thought was the rip just tiring myself out, pretty frustrating at times!
Cheers Mizu!
There is no freight on the board so its just a flat $475.
What about the board makes you say that it is for the more experienced surfer?
I’ll give the local shaper a call tomorrow perhaps, I think there is only one in Tas!
Cool stuff, I emailed the guy from the shop and he said it would be perfect, might just want to move it who knows..
I think it’s still free postage on second hand boards if you follow through to the check out. A mate ordered one from there not so long ago, might have changed though!
I’m currently fixing up this 6’6” that had a few dings and fin missing, it’s messy work! I might just use that for a while and see how I go!
Resetting the fcs plugs as they were pushed in and lose so I ripped them out and filled up with q cell. Fibreglassed the cracks and over the top of q cell etc. Going to drill holes for the new plugs tonight. Bit worried about getting them in the right spot! Planning on setting the new plugs in with fibreglass resin with chopped up glass in it.
I’d rather pay someone to do it but the shaper is about 2hrs plus away and the board is getting pretty stuffed anyway so its good practice!
It’s good advice, I didn’t really think about the rocker that way I just thought it would be better for surfing on fat wind swell and paddling out when its bigger. I’ll definitely be ringing the shaper prior to making any decisions anyway!
Hey mate,
Nah I didn’t end up going with it. I found out it was $90 freight because its on consignment, so in the end you were right! Made it definitely not worth it!
I fixed up that 6’6” and rode it last night, i think it may have a slight wobble to it from the fin not being on the right angle but was hard to tell because the waves were terrible! Probably going to use that board for a bit and then maybe call a shaper, found out there is a couple more about that just dont advertise like you said!
Ended up going with a 6’6” magic mullet from diverse for $320 second hand and freight was free because it was one of their boards.
The specs are here under magic mullet: http://www.diversesurf.com.au/boards/boards/mullets.php.
I’ll let you know how it goes when I get it. Hopefully it’ll turn up prior to easter!
This thread looks a bit weird now your post have been removed Mizu!
Also here is a link to a pdf file on how to replace/fit FCS plugs if anyone is interested: http://www.foamez.com/pdfs/FCSManual.pdf