The BOARDWORLD Forums ran from 2009 to 2021 and are now closed and viewable here as an archive

   

wax on, wax off

Avatar
deanobruce - 13 September 2011 03:22 AM
bliss - 13 September 2011 01:40 AM

I’m using a Dakine iron, got it for around $60. I think its just a plain waste of money to be spending around $100+ on an iron…

its a plain waste of money to spend $60 on an iron…

I got quoted $120 for an iron at one of my local stores, just saying its rediculous how much some people would pay, but if OP is looking to buy one other than using alternative options such as a normal clothing iron, he shouldn’t be paying anymore that $60. But its true, $60 is a bit of a waste haha. A tuning kit is definitely the way to go and from what I’ve heard, any old iron will work… just find a smaller iron so your not lugging around a large household clothing iron haha.

 
Avatar
Mudhoney - 13 September 2011 03:50 AM

lol so confusing.  You can read reviews online of a waxing iron and some people give it 5 stars and then the next reviewer gives it 1 star.  Some people say the cheaper ones don’t have enough mass, or the surface is too rough or it’s too flimsy blah blah   I’ve asked a couple of crusty old skiers I know and they both use an old clothes iron.  one didn’t even know you could buy a dedicated waxing iron.  I think I’ll just get a clothes iron and give that a try for now.  Mrs Mud is after a new teflon iron so I’ll take the old steel one.

re: the edges, the idea is to wax the edges then scrape them back as much as possible?  My scraper is an oblong shape with a little square notch in the corner that I suspect is made for that purpose.

Yea Mud- so you spread the wax right to the end, and use the notch to clear the wax of the metal edges- One of my scrapers is just the same cool smile

 
Avatar

Unless you’re storing it. Then you want to leave the wax on the edges to prevent corrosion. Although I don’t try too had to fully cover the edge.

 
Avatar
deanobruce - 13 September 2011 03:59 AM

ummm im not sure what your talking about. just wax the whole surface of the board, scrape the whole surface of the board back then thats it.

It was something i read on the leaflet that came with the Kuu wax I bought.  I think the idea is that when you’re spreading the wax, some dribbles over the side onto the side edges and you should scrape that back so your edges can do their job properly.

 
Avatar
Tills - 13 September 2011 06:07 AM

Unless you’re storing it. Then you want to leave the wax on the edges to prevent corrosion. Although I don’t try too had to fully cover the edge.

^^ yeah i’ve read to leave it on for the summer wax.  I’ve got my old board from 1993 in the garage and the edges have gone pretty rusty.

 
Avatar
Mudhoney - 13 September 2011 06:11 AM
Tills - 13 September 2011 06:07 AM

Unless you’re storing it. Then you want to leave the wax on the edges to prevent corrosion. Although I don’t try too had to fully cover the edge.

^^ yeah i’ve read to leave it on for the summer wax.  I’ve got my old board from 1993 in the garage and the edges have gone pretty rusty.

Did you leave it out-ish, or was it in a bag/container?  I keep my boards my trusty K2 travel bag I’ve had for ++years, two boards in which that have never seen the weather of OZ in the 7 1/2 years plus I’ve been here (little park ripper and HUGE POW BOARD no reason to set loose) and no rust issues. Maybe I’m lucky tho, just askin.

 
Avatar
snowdragon - 13 September 2011 11:40 AM
Mudhoney - 13 September 2011 06:11 AM
Tills - 13 September 2011 06:07 AM

Unless you’re storing it. Then you want to leave the wax on the edges to prevent corrosion. Although I don’t try too had to fully cover the edge.

^^ yeah i’ve read to leave it on for the summer wax.  I’ve got my old board from 1993 in the garage and the edges have gone pretty rusty.

Did you leave it out-ish, or was it in a bag/container?  I keep my boards my trusty K2 travel bag I’ve had for ++years, two boards in which that have never seen the weather of OZ in the 7 1/2 years plus I’ve been here (little park ripper and HUGE POW BOARD no reason to set loose) and no rust issues. Maybe I’m lucky tho, just askin.

yeah just left it out, stacked in with some timber on a rack in my garage.  I’ll most likely never use that board again, probably should chuck it.

 
Avatar

after about 2 secs, the wax on your edges will come off anyway.

a hot tip is to keep the bag your board comes in from new. after each season i wax my board, and throw it back in its bag to store under my bed. no rust, no drying the base out.

 
Avatar

Here’s a question…

If some of your edges have been left to dry over an off season, is there anything you can do - apart from maybe applying extra wax to the dry area - to bring it back?

 
Avatar

I saw a tool called a “gumstone” in MSC that can apparently remove rust.

 
Avatar

found a not too old Kambrook clothes iron on the neighbours’ nature strip last night on the way home!  win!

 
Avatar
Mudhoney - 14 September 2011 06:59 AM

I saw a tool called a “gumstone” in MSC that can apparently remove rust.

I was more talking about the outer edges of my base that dried out quite a bit over the summer.

 
Avatar
Mudhoney - 15 September 2011 10:55 PM

found a not too old Kambrook clothes iron on the neighbours’ nature strip last night on the way home!  win!

I picked up a brand spanker from Kmart for $14. Can’t go wrong.

 
Avatar
Tills - 15 September 2011 11:35 PM
Mudhoney - 14 September 2011 06:59 AM

I saw a tool called a “gumstone” in MSC that can apparently remove rust.

I was more talking about the outer edges of my base that dried out quite a bit over the summer.

Edit: oops had to re-read that.  Sorry, dunno how to treat a dried base, but my guess would be a nice wax would be a good idea.  I know people who almost never wax and they seem to get away with it.

 
Avatar

Found a couple of videos that cover edge tuning and waxing:  Snowboard Servicing