Question on setback
When a board is said to have a twin shape but the stance is setback, does that mean the sidecut is also setback so it’s centered with the inserts? Or is it centered on the board length?
which board?
Oh I’m just asking for any board for this matter (On top of my head I can only think of Lib Lando, Jamie Lynn, Burton Custom and Signal Omni). Since many boards are said to be twin shape but the stance is just setback a little (1/2 - 3/4 inch usually).
And also for my T.Rice since I’ve been thinking of setting my stance back maybe 1/2 - 3/4 inch so that when it’s a pow day I don’t have to move my bindings back and forth and since I don’t ride switch much anyways.
haven’t checked those boards, though I did own the lando. They might be twin-like as opposed to true-twins?
Yea you’re right their directional twins but here’s their description (dark series, phoenix, lando, and skunk ape)
“Directional Twin: Effortless freestyle and freeride geometry. Twin chassis (from contact to contact) but with an ever so slightly longer nose than tail. Floats on powder and blasts thru crud, a Twin with an advantage.” So does that mean the sidecut is not setback?
I haven’t looked closely at the new lib techs but at a guess I would say yes, if the bolts are set back then the sidecut is set back. Like Gamblor said there are directional twins and then there are true twins
True twins shouldn’t have a setback sidecut, otherwise they wouldn’t be true twins.
By the way, neither the Custom or the Omni is a true twin. Both have slightly directional shapes.
Directional twin could mean the board is a twin shape with a directional flexing core. It could also mean the shape is direction with a twin flexing core. The term is a bit overused and often not properly explained in my opinion. Different board manufactures use the term differently.
Ah I see, I think I’m a bit confused with directional twin and a true twin.
True twins shouldn’t have a setback sidecut, otherwise they wouldn’t be true twins.
By the way, neither the Custom or the Omni is a true twin. Both have slightly directional shapes.
Directional twin could mean the board is a twin shape with a directional flexing core. It could also mean the shape is direction with a twin flexing core. The term is a bit overused and often not properly explained in my opinion. Different board manufactures use the term differently.
I’m saying if the bolts are set back then it’s not a true twin but could still be called a twin if the shape is even.
The second thing you said was interesting. I knew about twin shapes with directional flex but a directional shape with twin flex??
I did not know that! Ya learn somethin new every day 
I think the thing that confuses me is when company says the board as a “twin or even shape” but a setback stance. So what does it mean by a twin shape? So take lib tech’s description for a directional twin I posted above. It says board has a twin shape with a slightly longer nose but the spec says it has a 0.5 inch setback. So my thought is that since it’s a “twin shape” then the sidecut is not setback then.
I know it probably doesn’t matter when you ride but I’m just curious about this whole thing.
The second thing you said was interesting. I knew about twin shapes with directional flex but a directional shape with twin flex??
I did not know that! Ya learn somethin new every day
Yep. Look at the Burton Custom; directional shape with twin flex.
I think the thing that confuses me is when company says the board as a “twin or even shape” but a setback stance. So what does it mean by a twin shape? So take lib tech’s description for a directional twin I posted above. It says board has a twin shape with a slightly longer nose but the spec says it has a 0.5 inch setback. So my thought is that since it’s a “twin shape” then the sidecut is not setback then.
I know it probably doesn’t matter when you ride but I’m just curious about this whole thing.
It means that it’s definitely not a “true twin” but just a “twin”. True twin means both halves of the board are identical. But boards that are just called a Twin could be a number of different styles.
These days a Twin (not true twin) can have many differences as long as 1 or 2 things are the same in the nose and tail. It could be the shape and sidecut are the same but the flex is directional. Or Vice versa like Rider said.
They even sometimes call it a twin if the nose and tail are the same width and shape! I’m guessing that might be what those Libtechs are.
So the nose and tail are the same width and the sidecut is directional because the bolts are set back.
If not then the bolts are just set back and you would be standing behind the carve centre in the sidecut, and I doubt Libtech would do that… but who knows??
Impossible to say for sure without looking at it.
Hi Guys
I’m new to snowboarding (loved it) and have just purchased myself a bunch of gear. I have what is probably a really basic setback/bindings question and have done some research but figured I was best off signing up and asking so I get it right first time.
I’ve received a DC Tone 2011 in size 153 and have a pair of bindings on the way. The tone is apparently a true twin board and there are some markings on the binding mounting area on the board that suggest it is 0” setback.
The binding mounts are 2 lots of 12 holes. To make it easier lets number like this
1 2 3 4 5 6
* * * * * *
* * * * * *
7 8 9 10 11 12
Now the bit that confuses me is the markings on the board. On the front mounts it says “0” Setback” with 4 little dashes pointing to 2,8,4 and 10 and under that is says 23.5” Reference. On the Back mounts it has the same markings except the dashes now point to 3,5,9 and 11.
My question is as a beginner rider 5"6, 68kg and aiming for all mountain how do you recommend I set my setback/bindings.
From my reading 23.5” width sounds too wide for my height so can I simply bring the front binding back to use 6 and 12 and rear binding to use 1 and 7 or will that throw things out?
If all goes to plan I also plan to hit up Japan or Canada at the start of 2012 and was wondering if increasing the setback on this board is worthwhile i.e moving the rear binding back a notch or is this pointless on a true twin?
Hopefully that all makes sense. I know it’s probably simple but all this talk of throwing out the flex and side cut had me worried
Cheers
Hey drc13, welcome to Boardworld. 
Here’s a thread I started with info on stance: https://www.boardworld.com.au/forums/viewthread/2597/ - It doesn’t answer your question but there might be some information in there that you could benefit from.
OK, so the 2,8,4,10 and 3,5,9,11 marking are just there as a reference. As you mentioned, those markings refer to a centred stance with a width of 23.5 inches. You’re right, as a beginner and at your height, you would be better off starting with a narrower stance. For the sake of simplicity (and keeping the reference centred stance), I would bring in both bindings one increment (one hole) towards the centre of the board. Each increment is once inch, so this will give you a centred stance with a width of 21.5 inches. This would be a good starting point for you.
Setback really depends on your riding style and the conditions you’re riding in. A lot of riders like a centred stance because it allows you to ride switch just as easily. A setback stance is beneficial if you’re riding deep snow. Setting your stance back will give you more float in powder.
Let me know if you have any further questions.
Hey Rider,
Thanks for the quick reply. Yeah I’ve actually had a good read through that thread about 3-4 times and it was fantastic. I learnt from that to try a slight duck stance and would never have known about adjusting the highbacks. The one thing I couldn’t work out for sure was this setback/binding question!
OK good to hear it’s purely a reference I wasn’t sure why they had marked those specific holes. Moving them both in one sounds good can I just confirm you mean 3,9,5 and 11 for front and 2,4,8 and 10 for the rear? I’ve been at the board with a tape measure and don’t seem to end up with a 21.5 measurement but I’ll take your word as you know a hell of a lot more than me.
Yeah I didn’t suspect setback would be overly necessary in Australian Conditions but wondering if Japan/Canada powder would necessitate it. Let’s say I do need setback, is it possible on this true twin board or does it throw out flex/sidecut etc? If so are you best off moving both feet back a notch or does simply moving one foot back achieve the same thing (presuming this would either shorten or lengthen the width depending on which foot you move)
Thanks again really appreciate your time
Edit: Also wanted to say the video tutorials in the rider progression forum have been a great help for a newbie as well. Just need them for surfing as well. I live at Cronulla and sadly I’m probably a better snowboarder (after one snow visit) than I am a surfer!
No worries at all.
Yeah the markings are there purely so you know your setback and width, no matter where you move your bindings to. Those number you gave are correct. That will put you at 21.5 inches with a centred stance. I’m pretty much your height and I ride with a 22.0 to 22.5 inch stance usually. However as a beginner I would suggest you start narrower and move wider as you feel necessary. 21.5 inches isn’t too narrow or wide for your height and you get to keep the centred stance, so it’s a good starting point.
It’s certainly possible to ride a twin board with a setback stance. You will find it beneficial in Canada or Japan when you get fresh snow. That not to say you can’t ride powder with a centred stance on a twin board, but having your stance setback will give you more float and make riding the powder easier. There aren’t any issues in doing so.
Moving one binding back still sets back your stance, however it only does so by half an inch at a time. So if you move one binding back, your setback will be half an inch. If you move both bindings together, it will change your setback by a full inch.