The BOARDWORLD Forums ran from 2009 to 2021 and are now closed and viewable here as an archive
Hey guys,
Does anyone know hw to achieve a smooth panning or zooming effect during a timelapse?
See below…
I am trying to figure if its stills or video…...... if its stills, then he could move the tripod between each shot.
If its video, then he must have a dolly that moves very slowly.
or its just a software thing.
either way, its very cool
Thanks for posting the video, Mizu. Yeah I was thinking it may be an effect in the editing program. Otherwise a really good dolly, but I’m not sure how it would work so slowly. I’m just wondering the easiest way to do it, as it’s a really cool effect.
There are different ways to do it.
The pro’s (as per first vid) wouldn’t use software. Any enhancement done on computer will reduce quality.
For video; using a track is the best way, very good bearings and constant movement with maybe an electrical puller. Cameras that have timer recording like Canon XL1s.
To do it with photo’s, if the subject has lots of motion; lots of math, measurements and precise tripod placement and timing.
I have planned to do it myself with stills but not had the time available, the best examples of this style done with video can be seen on the film Baraka (mentioned by my in ‘best movie ever’ thread) almost the entire movie is done this way and it took 10 years to film.
Tracking is key - a VERY good (expensive) track and dolly.
Cheapest Option
Dolly on flat surface; eg: skateboard (trucks tightened) on plywood and markers (gaffer tape) in regular intervals, using a still camera; shoot 24 photos for every second of video you want and move the camera to each marker (not by hand but with a pulley and cable) - you can do it by hand but will find the effort in post (and loss of quality) is better achieved by not requiring software.
NOTE: this is how I guess it’s done, no courses or education by me - just my observation.
Doing it with tracking is easy.
I have not watched the new vids, our internet is playing up today
So its still shots, 24 for every second of movie taken from a dolly?
I like that shizz, time and effort to create something uber cool. You know where I am coming from hey Mizu
Oh yeah spaz, I got a little something in the mail, thanks heaps buddy
Does it say what software he used to string it all together?
I am guessing Final Cut Pro?
Does it say what software he used to string it all together?
I am guessing Final Cut Pro?
Pretty sure Aperture has a plug in.
What is mentioned in the link re shooting higher resolutions is how I use HD video footage. Shooting in 1080p I can set up the camera on tripod and not worry about zooming/panning, I just let it capture a high resolution wide shot - because I output to DVD-video 720X576 (576p) I can zoom and pan in the FCP timeline. That way I operate a second camera (XL1s 16:9) or third camera (headcam-480p) and cut between the footage. That way even the most boring event can be watchable.
The great thing about time-laps is being able to use a still camera to create video (thank you digital revolution and big memory cards). A DSLR is most necessary for the ability to use glass way better than 99% of comercial video cameras.
Azz, I recon in iMovie you could do it.
Does it say what software he used to string it all together?
I am guessing Final Cut Pro?
Pretty sure Aperture has a plug in.
Most of the time lapses are done with DSLR’s using an intervalometer and more than likely a Kessler Crane or another dolly setup by a company called Dynamic perception…... Some awesome examples of this are done buy a guy called Tom Lowe… you should check him out
Hope this helps
Rod
And this!!!! Usin this Dolly without software!!!!
This post and the OP both use the dolly from Dynamic Perception!!!!! Click this link > HERE < !!!!
You stil need software to put it together even using a slider like the ones from Dynamic perception… The cheapest bit of software to use is Quicktime 7… It has to be this version as the newer ones dont do it….. You simply take all your files ( usualyy shot large jpegs ) and put them into a folder on the computer, open Qucktime, choose File / Open Image sequence choose the folder where your jpegs are the frame rate at which you want to use and BAM… it does the rest… all too easy if you ask me… If you got any questions, feel free to ask
Rod
Cool Rob, thanks for the input and welcome onboard Boardworld.
I so need to try some stills time laps.
I really like the idea of zoom and pan within a video edit program. Would save a bit on hiring a crane or dolly and is very smooth.
Can you explain “intervalometer”?
I understand it takes intermittent photo’s at set times. Will an old DSLR (nikon d70) work off software. Is intervalometer only a program?
I found out “Image Capture” which is a native program on mac’s has two functions:
One of them is to take a photo from my D70 and I can set a repeat timer.
That was after spending an hour on the google trying to find something.
Within my searching I found that an intervalometer can be a infrared control you can build yourself or a cable connection or controlled from a computer.
As the word says; Interval Meter. It’s anything that
measures
intervals
and fires a control mechanism.
Using them shortens the life of your camera.
My D70 is well past it’s life span since its done 6 snow seasons and 7 years outside of that on the beach. I also read Nikon made the D70 pretty tough like an old school SLR.
Within my searching I found that an intervalometer can be a infrared control you can build yourself or a cable connection or controlled from a computer.
As the word says; Interval Meter. It’s anything that
measures
intervals
and fires a control mechanism.
Using them shortens the life of your camera.My D70 is well past it’s life span since its done 6 snow seasons and 7 years outside of that on the beach. I also read Nikon made the D70 pretty tough like an old school SLR.
It is exactly what Mizu Kuma says… it simply plugs into your camera like a cable release and has various functions….. the one for the canons can be set to take a certain amount of photos every second, or a photo every certain number of seconds ( every 1, 2 , 5 or ten seconds, what ever the time is you chose ).
for fast moving stuff it is recommended you shoot your images closer together, and for slow moving stuff like clouds etc, it is best to widen the interval between shots… Im working on something ow with some time laps stuff in it, Ill let you guys know when its ready.
You can get aftermarket intervalometers for a fraction of the cost of a genuine one, but you get what you paid for !
Rod
The guy that did the first and latest one (mindrelic) doesn’t say, but the guy without the dolly does (the url link one) !!!!!
Final Cut pro is the software of choice of over 95 % of the people I knwo that do video
One would think the camera itself would be a major factor in the intervals and card speed. Eg; my D70 needs time (dependant on the settings) to save each shot, the max I can timelaps with precision intervals is 2s.
When I shoot sequence shots, I use RAW and can shoot about 3/sec but the timing varies. <it is an old DSLR. Sometimes it takes a few sec to save a series of shots.
I recall reading often; With timelaps the most important thing (apart from a intervalometer) is to set the aperture on manual to stop flicker.
What about shutter speed? Should it be left on auto so the camera can compensate for changes in lighting?