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Andy Irons - I surf because…

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Andy Irons is one of the world’s greatest ever surfers. A 3 times world champion made famous by his epic battles with Kelly Slater. But outside all the victories Andy’s life started to take a turn and his fire was starting to go out. He left the sport in search of himself and took it all back to basics. “i surf because… it keeps my life at an even keel, without it I would tip into oblivion”- ANDY IRONS. Watch this revealing clip of one of surfings most colourful dynamic characters.

isurfbecause.com

A project by Billabong and Woodshed Films

 
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Surfers are in their natural home in the water, it’s there they are themselves. He is not the man he should be on land. This is what makes a surfer a surfer.

It sucked watching that vid, as a human he is troubled, as a surfer he is a god.

I know many surfers like him. Most of the greatest that ever walked on water were like him. The greatest of all MP comes to mind, even RKS is just a humble man on dry land.

 
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2.13ish mark, such a mad wave…

 
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I haven’t watched this yet so I’ll be interested to see if it changes my current perception of Andy as an arrogant piece of work!

 
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nup…didn’t endear me to him at all, I have to say!

 
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yeah I just feel sorry for him mostly…I mean the poor guy has gone half his life not thinking for himself, and (as he admitted himself in the vid) living life to make other people happy or to look cool, to get girls or whatever. What a waste! I hope he learns to surf for the enjoyment of each and every wave.

 
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If you ever get a chance, watch A Fly In The Champagne.. If you havent already seen it, it documents Kellys and Andys rivalry over the years. I think they both come out looking like jerks at the end of it. More Andy than Kellly though… A must see flick though

isurfbecause i can create

 
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Empire - 14 October 2010 07:58 PM

2.13ish mark, such a mad wave…

double that!! i would kill for a wave like that…

i surf because because i love it grin

 
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I surf because….

It’s better than doing drugs to escape.