The tuning tech thread.
Clean and sharp edges can definitely help you go faster. It all comes down to carving and keeping a perfect pencil-line edge in the snow. The second your edge slips/slides even a bit (think on hardpack, groomers etc.), you’re losing speed. That’s why racers need to keep their edges razor sharp. Perfect carving leaves a perfect pencil-line in the snow; quite simply, this is easier with clean (burr-free) and sharp edges.
^ Yeap, that’s from what I know. 
@skip11: Your edges is what “carves” into the snow. Much like Ice skates, contact with the metal edges turns the snow into water to be able to dig in and carve/pave the way through the ice/snow, That’s really the only part we want in contact with water which is why we wax the rest of the board as any water then creates more friction with the board base.
Also any irregular shaping/burring on the edges creates friction. Think of it as a knife, you have a burred knife how does it cut? Not very well. Effectively you’re “cutting” through the snow with the edges by turning the snow to water.
FYI this is the reason why on ice skates the blades are sharpened to an ‘n’ shape (or upside down ‘u’.)
This channels excess water and lets it flow on, which reduces friction as well as slippage from planeing on the skates.
P.S. There’s a better explanation of this online if you look around for it.
Yeap I know the edges are what carves into the snow. But every tuning guide I read and watch said that burrs has more effect of catching edges rather than speed. Sure it may help you go faster but I think of it this way; ff I’m racing I’d rather have a sharp edge that has burrs and a waxed base vs a sharp edge with no burrs whatsoever and a dry base. The base is way more important for speed. You can make your edges as clean as possible but if your base is dry or you have the wrong wax, it’s still gonna be slow. Plus, how often do you actually do a perfect pencil line carving in a day of snowboarding? Even Nev on his SA video say he only carves 10% of the time.
Anyway that’s my opinion, agree to disagree. I still don’t believe deburring your edges gonna make you go faster. Sure it’ll help you win races when it’s measured by the milliseconds. But I’ll stick to deburr = less edge catches.
Clean and sharp edges can definitely help you go faster. It all comes down to carving and keeping a perfect pencil-line edge in the snow. The second your edge slips/slides even a bit (think on hardpack, groomers etc.), you’re losing speed. That’s why racers need to keep their edges razor sharp. Perfect carving leaves a perfect pencil-line in the snow; quite simply, this is easier with clean (burr-free) and sharp edges.
Yes, I agree but it’s because you slip/slide that makes you lose the speed and it is easier to carve on a clean razor sharp edge. But it doesn’t directly impact the speed. It improves your speed because you can grip the snow better and carve better but it doesn’t make your board go faster. Waxing your board makes your board go faster.
Anyhoo, my question to you is, how do YOU rate WB tuning shops?
Sounds like you’re using them, and if you continue to use them, they can’t all be that bad right?
More seeking others opinions for comparison and deferring to those with far more experience than I…! I’ll happily hot wax and deburr my board as required but haven’t ventured much further myself.
I have had a few small ptex jobs done and the edges run along the grinder for a quick sharpen by the BC daylodge guys as I have gotten to know them through working rentals last season. I am planning on dropping my board in somewhere soonish for a full tune as it has taken a bit more of a beating now it’s well into my second season. Again convenience and cost (or lack there of) will probably be key drivers and I’m sure it will be at least a satisfactory job.
Will be nice to have it brought back to the best condition it can be.
^ Well if it ain’t broke….. =)
Yes, I agree but it’s because you slip/slide that makes you lose the speed and it is easier to carve on a clean razor sharp edge. But it doesn’t directly impact the speed. It improves your speed because you can grip the snow better and carve better but it doesn’t make your board go faster. Waxing your board makes your board go faster.
I’d take a second to re-read what you’ve just said, esp the first line.
Making carving easier allows you to get more speed.
You’ve just agreed to disagree on a statement you’ve made that discounts what you’re claiming (edges does not help with speed.)
That factor in control directly impacts the speed. an F1 car won’t go fast if they’re swerving left and right, they won’t be able to get up to speed.
Physics don’t lie dude. =)
Sigh. I’ll just agree to disagree. Just to make it clear my point 1 last time.
That 1st line of my reply about the slip and slide is more directly related to the skill of the snowboarder. You cannot compare snowboarding to F1.
Deburring does not directly impact speed like waxing does. Why do you think racers spend a lot of money on waxing and not edges? base prep, waxing, overlays, etc. I mean how much can you do to an edge that will increase your speed?
The difference in speed you can possibly get from deburring is minute. Sure it will make your board ride smoother and carve a bit easier. Take a board with regular burrs ride it freshly waxed and ride a board with clean edges freshly waxed. If you can tell the difference in speed (not in ease of carve), I’m amazed.
Take a board that’s dry and take a board that’s freshly waxed, tell me you can’t feel the difference.
This’ll be my last post on this topic.
^ whatever floats your boat dude. I’m just pointing out you’re choosing to ignore physics.
If edges were that low priority, there wouldn’t be that many options to deburr your edges.
Just that I for one in personal experience, know that I would not be able to get the speeds I did at showcase with blunted edges, whilst I do agree that repelling water (friction) over a broader surface (base of board) has priority over friction over a smaller surface.
That’s also plain physics.
Burrs doesn’t mean blunt. You can have sharp edges and have burrs.
Where is my damn popcorn…
Both your points are valid. It’s a tuning thread. We don’t need to get into arguments over it. 
Board A with sharp edges and Board B with blunt edges should technically get down the mountain at the same time if you just let them go in a straight line, assuming they are the exact same board.
With a competent snowboarder riding the boards, and assuming he’s not just riding in a straight line, he should be able to get down quicker on Board A with sharp edges. Let’s not forgot that snowboarders ride snowboards, and the board’s ability to be ridden fast due to its physical condition should be taken into consideration — if that’s indeed what we’re discussing here.
And to nitpick, if you say you can feel burrs catch on cat track etc., surely that catching feeling means you’re losing speed, and not due to lack of riding ability either? It’s because of the physical state of the edge. But you’re right, burrs and dullness are two different things.
I think, essentially, we are all agreeing here. Shall we talk about something else? 
^ Lol yeah. I took it off line. =)
I believe there’s a misunderstanding of intent.
I actually thought Rico wasn’t being rhetorical. LOL
Anyways, I have a Q: does anyone use a ptex gun for base repairs?
I do my own with candlestick as I have not found a good place for repairs in Vic (open to reccomendations, must be Underground Tuning standard.)
Not that they’re all bad, but the few places I’ve been to haven’t been on par, and from the looks of things it’s probably due to change/turnover of staff in the back room.
Anyways, I’ve been looking at getting this:
http://racewax.com/p-771-skimender-rp105-ski-snowboard-ptex-base-repair-pistol.aspx
I mean it’s not like the one Yohann/Brad/Olli uses at UGT, but wondered about ppl’s experience with it as my boards has multiple gouges that warrants more than a couple of ptex patches. =)
I’ve only used a p-tex gun in the tuning shop I was working at. For all home repairs, I’ve only ever used the drop method (which eventually falls out). The main thing with the p-tex guns is they don’t allow the p-tex to oxidise, which is why it bonds well with the base. I think the p-tex gun you’ve linked would be perfectly fine.
^ Lol yeah. I took it off line. =)
I believe there’s a misunderstanding of intent.
I actually thought Rico wasn’t being rhetorical. LOLAnyways, I have a Q: does anyone use a ptex gun for base repairs?
I do my own with candlestick as I have not found a good place for repairs in Vic (open to reccomendations, must be Underground Tuning standard.)Not that they’re all bad, but the few places I’ve been to haven’t been on par, and from the looks of things it’s probably due to change/turnover of staff in the back room.
Anyways, I’ve been looking at getting this:
http://racewax.com/p-771-skimender-rp105-ski-snowboard-ptex-base-repair-pistol.aspxI mean it’s not like the one Yohann/Brad/Olli uses at UGT, but wondered about ppl’s experience with it as my boards has multiple gouges that warrants more than a couple of ptex patches. =)
Have a look at Tognar for all your needs, grunge!!!!!
Most likely be a bit cheaper I reckon????? (Don’t quote me on this) 
^ WOAH. a bucketload cheaper.
http://www.tognar.com/skimender-rp105-base-repair-pistol/
Can I ask what ppl (esp overseas) are getting as pricing? Currently it’s $73.11AUD for me and you can’t change the region.
Shipping is $26aud so it’ll be under $100!!!