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With a size 11 boots, you might need a midwide or a wide board. I think rider26 will have a different opinion than me but I feel you should ai for a waist width of 258mm or higher. It makes it easier when you start learning to carve, so you won’t have toe/heel drag.
No disrespect to OP intended here, but I doubt that issues with carving will even come up anytime soon. I’m only just now trying to push myself into carving more aggressively. I’ve been riding a lot longer than one week.
Not everyone is a carving demon like you, Rico
@lu: Hahah. Maybe I’m used to wider board, but with my size 9 I like around 250mm waist width, so that’s why I suggested the 258mm for his size 11 (Assuming his boots doesn’t have small footprint).
@Grunge, I will be sticking to the tracks and learning all I can, I like to prefect the basics before I move foward, not really the type to just throw myself into something but work my way up to it. I am going to QT for my addition in the future I also would like to hit up Japan as I hear good things about there but in no rush to travel further abroad until I have the monies!!
@Everyone, For anyone who might be in the area at the time, I will be staying at QT from the 13th June until the 26th
@TJswish, I am a skinny lad being 6"6’ :p my boot size is about 11 so I should be okay with a normal size I guess, my feet fit fine in the hire gear and the board didn’t seem any wider then the others. So reverse camber or a hybrid is what I am after? I get the whole hip thing as well I train with the ice hockey team here and have been skating most of my life, obviously its a different thing to ice skate but most of what I do now comes straight from the hips, so I understand what you are saying.
@skip11, cheers for the input, like you said a 158 might just be better for my height and weight
@rider26, size 11 I do believe, they are Nitro boots unsure what exact model sorry as I don’t have my receipt with me
Thanks so far guys, appreciate the help and I got a pretty good feeling like I will be spending all of my travel time throughout the year going to the slopes :p
Thanks for the additional information, mate.
If you are curious about different camber profiles and how they affect the ride, please read this article I wrote: https://www.boardworld.com.au/forums/viewthread/4119
In regards to a specific board, I would point you straight to the YES Basic 159W. If features the “CamRock” camber profile which is super versatile (Hybrid Type B in the linked article); camber between your feet for stability, pop, and carving performance; rocker in the nose and tail making it forgiving, easy to turn, great to learn tricks on (presses, butters etc.), and float in powder. This is my favourite hybrid camber profile on the market, by a long shot.
I feel the 159 size is close to perfect for you. At 80-85kg and 6"6, you need to be on something around this size. Rocker in the nose and tail will make it “feel” like a shorter board, but you have adequate length for stability, progression, and float in powder when the opportunity arises. The 161mm waist is more than adequate without being too wide. Each boot (brand and model) have different volumes and foot prints, and you are certainly safe with this waist width.
The YES Basic is constantly a best seller due to its all-round performance and value for money. It’s a great beginner to intermediate board, but also serves well for high performance snowboarding. No matter your riding style or ability level, the Basic can handle it all, meaning you will always have fun and continually progress. Anyone who’s tested or purchased this board has absolutely loved it, and that’s direct feedback from our members and customers.
Last but not least, it comes with a lifetime warranty. YES is the only brand in the business offering a lifetime warranty on their boards. We have one available, the price has been slashed. https://www.boardworld.com.au/yes-the-basic-159w-snowboard
Shoot me an email or PM if you’re interested or have any questions at all: jeremy(at)boardworld.com.au
Eh, I have size 10’s and have never had toe or heel drag with anything from 148 to 155. If you go too wide then it makes it harder to turn and as a beginner, this is likely his biggest concern, not that after weeks of riding he may hit his toe or heels on the ground in an aggressive carve. Plus, since he is tall, he is likely to be riding in the wider binding stance and therefore getting more width than someone who is shorter.
I guess the other question here is what angles do you ride with Shoeless? If its dead straight then yeah, get a wide board as you’ll have issues. If you ride 15/-15 like a good majority of people then you’ll be fine on anything 252ish width.
While being slightly more expensive, I’d go for this over the basic:
https://www.boardworld.com.au/snow-shop/mens/snowboards/yes-the-greats-158-snowboard
Or check out the Burton Custom 158 which has a 254 waist width.
Or a Rome Garage Rocker 159 with a 254 waist width
Or a DC PLY which has a 254 waist width. DylanV rode one of these and always liked it.
It’s got a better base and (personally I think) better graphics. Will last you a lifetime and still be decent in Powder if you go to the Northern Hemisphere (or just get lucky in NZ). I really doubt you’ll have issues with toe drag unless you run some short ass angles in your bindings… Like DRC
Just doing some research and here is the difference of a size 10 and a size 11.5 Burton boot on a 255mm width board.
From Evo.com, they suggest a 255mm board for a size 11.5 boot.
Size 10:...
Size 11.5:
With either of those pictures, I feel like you have no issues and shouldn’t be going into a massive 261mm waist width.
And a quote from another snowboard forum from a guy named Big Nick:
I ride on a 261mm waist with size 11 Burton Rulers. I definitely would not want a board any wider than what I currently have, and for my next board I am aiming for a waist width somewhere in the mid-250s range. I would say from experience that the 256mm is the better choice. Not saying the other will be a problem at all, just the 256mm is what I would take… it’ll give you that bit of overhang that is not too much so you get a little better leverage. Oh, btw i ride +12/-9 at the moment in case it matters to you.
And from NBG who is a regular member on here:
I have size 12 feet and ride 255 as my waist width without dramas but I ride with a wide stance and +15 -15 which helps.
Eh, I have size 10’s and have never had toe or heel drag with anything from 148 to 155. If you go too wide then it makes it harder to turn and as a beginner, this is likely his biggest concern, not that after weeks of riding he may hit his toe or heels on the ground in an aggressive carve. Plus, since he is tall, he is likely to be riding in the wider binding stance and therefore getting more width than someone who is shorter.
I guess the other question here is what angles do you ride with Shoeless? If its dead straight then yeah, get a wide board as you’ll have issues. If you ride 15/-15 like a good majority of people then you’ll be fine on anything 252ish width.
While being slightly more expensive, I’d go for this over the basic:
https://www.boardworld.com.au/snow-shop/mens/snowboards/yes-the-greats-158-snowboardIt’s got a better base and (personally I think) better graphics. Will last you a lifetime and still be decent in Powder if you go to the Northern Hemisphere (or just get lucky in NZ). I really doubt you’ll have issues with toe drag unless you run some short ass angles in your bindings… Like DRC
Every boot is different. Some brands and model have a much bigger footprint than others. One factor I didn’t consider is how tall he is; he will naturally have a wider stance width, meaning he can get away with a narrower board. I think he could get away with a 253mm waist given the previous fact, but I don’t think 261mm is overkill either. The Basic is super easy to turn… having a couple of mm extra won’t make it sluggish, I don’t think. Anything wider, and yeah, I’d steer clear.
The good news is I think either board would be suitable in regards to length/width. I recommended the Basic to keep his cost down a bit. But you’re right, the Greats is an incredible board and I agree with everything you’ve said. If you want to spend a bit more, you won’t be sorry. This is actually the exact board I’m about to buy for myself (in the 154). I’ll be shredding it for the rest of the season in Whistler.
He’ll be stoked with either board. Just comes down to what he wants to spend.
Shoeless, just so you know, both boards have the same “CamRock” camber profile I was speaking about earlier. Both boards are current 2015 models, and come with a full lifetime warranty.
Just doing some research and here is the difference of a size 10 and a size 11.5 Burton boot on a 255mm width board.
...
On this, there’s so many factors that go into determining suitable waist widths. And it isn’t a science. Any snowboarder has a range of waist widths they can comfortably ride with no negative effects. I’ve ridden everything from 242 to 255, with no noticeable problems, in most situations. You know I’ve tested a lot of boards.
Also, stance (width and angles) will affect waist width, as we’ve already mentioned. Sidecut will affect waist width. And one of the most ignored factors is how aggressively you ride (angulation when carving); to exaggerate the point, I have size 9 boots and I could ride a 230mm waist and not get boot drag if I ride super mellow and slide my turns. I can also easily boot drag with my 248mm board or even wider boards when I carve aggressively on my toeside edge.
This is why I often ignore what people say on other forums. Because who knows what boots they are, who knows what stance they’re rocking, and most importantly, who know how they ride, who knows what terrain they are riding. I would want to know all of this before valuing anything I read.
Anyway, my point on all of this is everyone has a range of waist widths they can comfortably ride. They key is not going too narrow or wide, and I don’t think either boards we’ve mentioned do.
Yep, agreed . Both boards and anything 253-261 ish will be fine to learn and advance on .
I rode the Yes Basic last winter and couldn’t be more happy with it. I hadn’t been on a board in 4 years and felt super comfortable straight away.
I’m 6`0 and about 75kg, size 9 boot and I rode a 155.
Real stable when shooting through fast sections and super playful when hitting the park.
We had a few Aussie pow days and the board didn’t skip a beat, rode everything I wanted it to.
I’ll be getting next year’s model for sure.
I’ll be taking it to Japan next week, can let you know how it goes in the deep stuff
A lot to think about and a lot that is starting to just confusing for me now, especially binding angles as I am unsure what to ride at, do I just keep playing until I feel comfortable?? I believe when I rode last my back foot was 90 (as in facing straight out) and front was slightly angled more forward but couldn’t tell you an exact degree. Should I give 15/-15 a go?
I recently picked up a pair of Burton Cartel Bindings which hopefully will be alright to use on the board I decide to go with, I do like the Basic board, it has a nice look, very simple yet effective. I have a bit of time before I leave and don’t want to fork out money just yet but if I can find the board for me I wont be far off spending the money.
On the other hand I don’t want to miss a Sale if I can, saving money is the best thing I can do at the moment as just getting enough for my trip is a challenge :p
Everything you need to know about stance and setup is here:
https://www.boardworld.com.au/snowboarding/guides/stance-and-setup
Yes, I would encourage you to play with your stance to find what’s comfortable and what works for your riding style. Read the above article and let me know if you have any questions.
You were set up with a “directional” setup, which is normal for beginners. The purpose is to get you turning as quickly as possible. The duck stance (both bindings pointing outwards) is more versatile and especially helpful when learning tricks (better for riding switch etc.). What we were basically saying is you can ride a narrower board with a duck stance, as your boot doesn’t take up as much board width when it’s at an angle.
The Cartels are a great binding. I’ve owned a couple in my time. You won’t have any problems and they will work well on any board you purchase.
We have one left of each board. Both on sale. Just saying.
Definitely play with your binding till you’re comfortable. A straight back foot is a very typical rental shop thing to do. Your front foot does most of the work so it doesn’t change a ton where your back foot is going until you start riding switch and stuff.
Personally with beginners, I start them at 12/-12 and get them to stand in there and move on the board a bit. Then we can fiddle and fix it up.
Normally it depends a lot on your level of fitness and flexibility. If you’re really flexible (like touch the floor with your hands flat flexible) you’ll likely run 9/-9 or so. If you’re really un-flexible like me, you can end up as stupid as 21/-21. Which you should try to stay away from cause it can be quite bad for ze knees.
I would never put anything less than 15 on the front foot. It makes turning unnecessarily more difficult. You want your hips more open to the direction of travel.
^ yeah I’d start with +15 on the front and maybe 0 on the rear.
No disrespect to OP intended here, but I doubt that issues with carving will even come up anytime soon. I’m only just now trying to push myself into carving more aggressively. I’ve been riding a lot longer than one week.
Not everyone is a carving demon like you, Rico
LOL!!! He tried to get me on a bigger waisted board too!!!
I was like.. meh.. can’t feel the overhang either way. =)
Got me paranoid tho’, I kept looking at my carving lines to see if the overhang dug in for the rest of the time I was there… LOL! =D