The tuning tech thread.
Just thought I’d start a thread where we can ask/share about the technical stuff in tuning snowboards, such as edges, ptexing, etc etc.
Anybody here tune and tech their own boards (asides from waxing?)
I’ve been taking an keen interest in tuning my boards (not that I do alot of it,) and one of the things I find useful that I have is a base and side bevel file guide (which allows me to bevel the edges up to 5 deg in 0.5 deg increments,) with some diamond stones (I have DMT ones in red, blue and black.)
This helps because instead of essentially over shaving using the metal ones, I’m able to just tune it down as much as I want depending on whether want to cut, sharpen, or just fine tune my edge.
I tend to use gumi or ceramic if it’s just a basic deburring (I do this essentially when I wax my board as I finger check the edges before I start waxing,) but currently my boards (especially the Agent Rocker) needs a full edge work so I’ll need to start from a cut to a sharpen. I’ve also beveled the agent rocker’s base by 2 degrees, so I don’t catch edges when I’m jibbing in the park.
I know some ppl prefer to totally blunt their edges, but I don’t have a dedicated park board and prefer to be able to use my edges on the snow.
I am OCD about tuning. I tune my own edges and wax my own board. I have a tool like yours Andy, that allows me to tune to varying angles. For edges, I like em really sharp with a 1 degree bevel on the base and side. If I have found any horrible burrs from riding over unseen rocks, etc. I usually use the black diamond stone (I think the hardest grit) to clean it, then use the blue diamond stone, the smooth it out with the red diamond stone (as per Yohan’s instruction). After that, I use a gummi stone and just ran over the whole edge as many times as I feel like it. If it’s a very small burr I use either the blue/red diamond stone or just the gummi stone.
I found I’m waxing my Lando everytime I ride but the Flight Attendant seems to hold wax better (both are equally fast). Personally I use WEND wax (they supply the US snowboard steam) or Bluebird wax. I found them the best (durability and speed). The bluebird wax is a really hard wax so you have to scrape them when they’re still warm (the instruction is on their site but not on the actual product itself). Scrape the wax off, brush with white Nylon brush, then brush brown/black with horse hair brush, then just wipe with regular cloth.
Also to note, Yohan from Underground tuning said, if you have a white base board and only have 1 brush, don’t use a white brush. He said it’ll create static. Anyways, I highly recommend downloading the Snowboard Addiction tuning guide featuring Yohan, he’s the best when it comes to this stuff.
I will admit, I’ve always been a tech/tuning nerd as well. I have always tuned my own boards since I started snowboarding. I also worked as a tuning technician for a couple of years at my old shop. It was super fun to start using the big boy machines to base grind and sharpen edges etc.
I always travel with at least wax, iron, scraper, gummy stone, diamond stone, file with file guide, p-tex stick, and a couple of other bits and pieces. At home, I have more, such as tuning vices, base cleaner etc.
Many different tools will do the job. I think it’s most important to understand the processes, techniques, and reasoning behind what we’re doing.
I would also like to point out that, once in a while, it’s a good idea to take it to a proper tuning shop for a full service, namely a base grind. There’s certain things we can’t do at home, like the mentioned base grind — but also with p-texing, unless you have a p-tex gun, it’s almost impossible to get a perfect bond like what can be achieved with the gun (due to oxidisation) during the “drip” process.
I love topics like this, and I love learning more as well. Anyone reading this, please feel free to shoot through any questions about tuning. There’s no such thing as a silly question. Hit us up, and if there’s something we don’t know, we can always get Yohann or someone with more knowledge on here to clarify whatever we need. 
While I’m here, I might as well share Yohann’s waxing guide that he filmed with us (new series coming, by the way):
Im the opposite. I dont carry any gear around, i just drop my board off at the tuning shop below my work and exchange a basegrind/tune/wax for a few free beers at work.
Works for me 
But that’s 40 bucks everytime you go there Dean (or less with the BW discount)
$40 orrrrr free. i know which i will be doing 
But in saying that Underground do a killer job, every now and then i will go get a full tune up at Underground. But for basic wax, edge burrs etc. i just go downstairs.
Also to note, Yohan from Underground tuning said, if you have a white base board and only have 1 brush, don’t use a white brush. He said it’ll create static.
Really? But aren’t all nylon brushes white?
And what does the static do?
Man, I so need to fix up my boards, I found a topsheet peel on my Aviator, which I need to either cut and epoxy or expoxy and clamp but I’ve got 1/2 my board tools in storage… Definitely need to visit where I have it stored and get it out.
@grunge: Yeah, I think most nylon brush are white (which is totally fine for black bases), not sure if they make dark nylon brush. He said static will make the board a bit slower. I once brushed my Fish (pure white base, except for the logo) with just the white brush and it’s totally fine. That being said, I always brush with the white nylon brush first (regardless of base color) then brush again with horse hair brush (which is brown/black). Haha, my Lando is top sheet has several chips already lol, this beans topsheet that Lib uses is certainly not durable.
^ yeah, makes sense which is why the last application is to use that fibrelene/scotchbrite to stop static.
Should be okay if you’re using multiple brush passes.
Funny thing, when I was staying @ base II, I waxed my board every 2-3 days and I’d see guys there all the time, and they’d be filing their edges to get faster speed, but would only wax and scrape their board and that’s it. I mean, at least scotchbrite your board if you do want it to go fast.
They’d look at me going over the board with my 3 brushes like I’m a weirdo.
I don’t even touch my edges even tho there are burrs on them, as I consider them too slight to deburr.
Maybe I just happen to get in that wax room at the wrong crowd, but yeah.. it was amusing for me.
I almost always deburr lately after riding unless I’m riding pow. Somehow I always managed to run over a small rock or something that messes up the edges. Wait, how does filing their edges make the board go faster?
How does everyone rate the WB tuning shops?
I understand the BW connection with Underground, however the WB staff discount (up to 45% or free) and the convenience (work locker in the BC daylodge) mean I’ll probably continue to go through them in Whis.
^ Steve-O, I was hooked on to Underground way before I got on BW. Yohann’s got a really good rep even before he got the Summit Lodge ski and board storage room to double as his shop.
FYI Underground Tuning because he used to wax guests’ skis and board in the basement of the hotel. =)
Anyhoo, my question to you is, how do YOU rate WB tuning shops?
Sounds like you’re using them, and if you continue to use them, they can’t all be that bad right?
I mean, from my own experiences, I would prefer to do basic board tuning myself, as I find the experience and knowledge at snowboard shops in Melbourne lacking. Maybe it’s just me being pedantic but it helps if you do have a high level of detail if you’re trying to do things right, I feel.
I almost always deburr lately after riding unless I’m riding pow. Somehow I always managed to run over a small rock or something that messes up the edges. Wait, how does filing their edges make the board go faster?
Huh? What do you mean? Filing edges = sharpening them. It’s just using the file instead of diamond stone and otherwise.
Leaves them a little rough for wear I think, but hey, to each their own…
Funny thing, when I was staying @ base II, I waxed my board every 2-3 days and I’d see guys there all the time, and they’d be filing their edges to get faster speed
I don’t get why filing edges make the board faster. No effect at all.
Static will make your board go slower…...... No offence but that’s sounds like the biggest load of poop I’ve heard in a while!!!! As soon as your board touches the ground any static charge will be gone, and even if it hasn’t, the effects of static charge on a board weighted with a human would be negligible.
^ As much as I agree with you, maybe hold out a little on the tar and feathering.
I have a feeling that something may be lost in translation, plus Yohann’s not the kind of guy to jibber jabber or trash talk.
So maybe let @skip11 elaborate more perhaps? *nudges Rico*
Also re: filing edges. Maybe I didn’t make myself clear, they’re effectively deburring the edges. I mean.. why would we deburr edges otherwise?
@treadpants: Hey, that’s what Yohan said. I have no idea why it would make it slower, he didn’t really elaborate on why. As I mentioned my Fish with a white is totally fine when I brushed it with white nylon brush.
@grunge: We deburr edges so that we don’t catch edges. The burrs can make the board catch edges say on rails, boxes, or even cattracks. So yeah, I still have no idea why filing/edges or deburring edges will make the board go faster (and I don’t think it does).