Burton Custom X/Mission EST Binding Setup
I just like arguing with you.
You go straight to your room, young man!!!!!
I’m 6’2. Ok I’ll try to make my stance 22’’ from the 21’’ I set up. Ill try the 15 degrees in the front and see where that goes and if it need any tweaking after a couple runs.
The thing is with my toe ramp, its on the smallest setting. The guy at Val Surf set up my board totally wrong (I think he was a new worker). My toe was way more front than the picture i took. Any other tips you could give me about the channel board?
Thanks a lot for your help guys. This forum is freaking AWESOME! I will refer more people here.
At 6’2, you’d want to have at least a 22” stance. That’s a perfect place to start (always better to start narrower), and as I suggested, you can gradually try a bit wider until you find your ideal stance. Play around with your stance, get a feel for it, then make small changes and see if you like it. Experimentation is essential.
Generally speaking, a wider stance is more common for freestyle/park, as it gives a nice and solid platform, and also makes it easier to press and tweak.
To give you a rough idea, I’m about 5’7 and I ride a 22.5” stance (sometimes 22” depending on the board). I consider that to be about average for my height. I find that stance to be very versatile, regardless of what terrain I’m riding.
I’m 6’2 and run a 23.6 inch stance
I just wanted to ask you guys one more question. Rider26. you mentioned that if i want to make riding switch easier i should “. If you do want to make learning switch a bit easier, you can turn out your back binding a bit more, i.e. a stance of 15/-15, or you could even centre your stance”. Don’t i have to fix the stance where the tail and nose both hit the center of the binding equally first or how do I do it? Sorry i couldn’t quite understand that part :(
I dont get what you are trying to say mate.
But what Jez aka Rider is saying is that you can simply put more angle on your rear binding (i.e spin it more so the toe of the binding faces more to the rear of the board) so when riding switch your “front foot” is facing downhill.
Make more sense?
I think he gets the binding angles bein a mirror image, but I think he’s thinking more about the stance bein centered?????
As its a board that is a Directional Makeup (As opposed to a True Twin), and has a Setback Stance, I would just make the distances even in relation to the Suggested Position that will be marked on the deck!!!!!
I read it as: ‘if I change the angle, I may have more heal hangover, over the toe hand; or vice versa - and not be centered.
This is correct, but you will be able to correct the centering with another adjustment. Bindings can be adjusted (bird’s eye view): forward and back, up and down, and rotate left and right.
A good way to check for the centering you are after is to strap the boot in and look at it square on from underneath. A lil overhang on either edge ain’t going to matter too much.
I just wanted to ask you guys one more question. Rider26. you mentioned that if i want to make riding switch easier i should “. If you do want to make learning switch a bit easier, you can turn out your back binding a bit more, i.e. a stance of 15/-15, or you could even centre your stance”. Don’t i have to fix the stance where the tail and nose both hit the center of the binding equally first or how do I do it? Sorry i couldn’t quite understand that part :(
Have a read through this article I wrote: https://www.boardworld.com.au/forums/viewthread/2597/
I’m not sure I understand what you’re asking but I’ll try to clarify what I meant:
1. Turning out your back binding a bit more. This refers directly to your binding angles (see diagram below). I am suggesting to put more of a negative angle on your back binding, by pointing the toes more towards the tail of the board.
*In this diagram you will see the back binding angles towards the tail at an angle of -9 degrees. I am suggesting turning it out even more, i.e. -15 degrees, to make it even easier to ride switch.
2. Centring your stance. Even if a board’s reference stance is set back, you can still centre your stance if you wish. For example, the Custom X has a reference stance of 25mm setback. If you slide both bindings towards the nose by 25mm, you now have a centred stance. Basically, a centred stance makes it easier to ride switch. It’s just another option you can play around with.
*Say this is your Custom X with a setback of 25mm (1 inch).
*If you move both bindings exactly 25mm towards the nose, your stance is now centred.
But a Centered Stance on a Directional Board wont feel like it’s “Truly” Centered due to the differing Sidecut/Flex/etc?????
ie The tail of a Directional Board will most likely be Stiffer than the Nose!!!!! (Even when Centered)
That’s true. I only said it will make riding switch easier. It will never ride like a true twin.
It also depends on the board. Some “directional” boards only have a longer nose than tail, but the sidecut is centred and the flex is twin (the Custom X has a twin flex FYI). On edge, these boards should ride like a twin.
You don’t always have to ride a board at the default setback. It’s always worth understanding the shape of your board and experimenting with different stances (within reason).
Also, it’s not always possible to ride your preferred stance width at the default setback. Burton’s channel makes this possible, but not with other boards (3-hole and 4-hole patterns). Just say your board has a reference stance of 21 inches and 1 inch setback. What if you want to ride a 22 inch stance? You can’t with the default setback. You either need to ride with a 21 or 23 inch stance, or keep your preferred 22 inch stance but change to a 0.5 inch setback.
*I wish Burton put more detail about the shapes of their boards on the website. They used to have this stuff on point. I’m not sure why they have gone minimalistic and removed valuable information.
So if the Custom X has a Twin Flex, yet has a Set Back Stance (I’m only guessin) then if it was True Centered, it will be perfectly Balanced Regular & Switch?????
If so, why would they label it a Directional Shape?????
* I’m just questioning the logic of Burton
Burton’s directional boards often have a twin flex.
I’m not sure what you’re saying though. It didn’t really make sense. 
So if the Custom X has a Twin Flex, yet has a Set Back Stance (I’m only guessin) then if it was True Centered, it will be perfectly Balanced Regular & Switch?????
?
By True Centered, I mean that the bindings are symmetrically attached!!!!!