Laird Hamilton and the Portuguese chicken burger
This was posted by http://www.swellnet.com.au this morning. 30/10/13
Laird shuts them down….
If there’s one thing you can count on in modern surfing, it’s this: when big waves break the real turbulence hits, not at the moment of impact, but a few days afterward when the media – that’s you, me, and everybody with an internet connection – steps into the fray.
And so it goes with Nazare.
But before I take the usual route and inform everyone of their own ill judgement, allow me a few observations:
There’s a sweet irony seeing an Old World wave stepping into the big wave arena. America started the big wave chase, and more recently the big wave measurement gig. They spurned the traditional measurement of surfers feet for a more favourable metric – literal height. Thus the ‘face race’ began and 20 foot waves instantly became 40 foot waves and surfers began seeking the glorious 100 footer that would bring everlasting fame and a pay incentive. Thus did height become everything. It was crude but befitting of the land where supersize is the new regular, except now the most super wave of them all doesn’t break in America. Going on the reaction to Monday’s session everyone thinks Portuguese Burgers are best.
Nazare may hold the biggest ridable waves in the world. It could be the veritable Everest of surfing! Yet mountaineers who know say Everest ain’t the hardest hill to climb. Its broad, wide buttresses allow for (relatively) easy access. There are smaller yet harder mountains to conquer. Take heart from that analogy, disgruntled big wave men.
For all its misshapen bulk, Nazare still has incredible height on takeoff. And that means speed. Some of the waves ridden on Monday showed up deficiencies in board design. If Nazare is to stay on the big wave map – and I have a feeling the circus is gonna set up regular winter camp – then the surfers will have to look closely at board design and performance. Maybe they’ll reconsider how to tackle it. It seems a likely place to experiment with Laird Hamilton’s old foil boards. Whip into the waves early, glide with the board’s rail hanging well above the chop, don’t get caught inside - simple!
Now that I’ve invoked the holy name of Laird it’s time we brought him into the conversation. Last year I wrote a column titled ‘Why big wave measurement is a swinging dick’ after Garrett McNamara claimed his world record wave at Nazare. Now Carlos Burle has beaten that and it appears the stocks of some big wave surfers are dropping, and they don’t like it one bit.
So go on Laird, unzip it for us:
Laird is 100% on point. I agree with everything he said in the interview. Good article too!
How can you claim a world record after being smashed by the wave you’re claiming?
Maya was way out of her depth riding those waves. She came so close to death (resuscitated by CPR)!
There’s a reason this guy is a legend - he knows his shit!
Carlos didn’t make up the system for measurement though?????
Should he not claim it just because Laird doesn’t agree?????
Plenty of experienced big wave riders have died in big surf!!!!! Were they also out of their league????? Unfortunately shit happens!!!!! Has Laird never been out of his depth at one point or another????? Damn straight he has!!!!!
Sound like Sour Grapes to me!!!!!
I think laird and rider are on point with their views. You can’t claim something that you did not complete!
I’m all for getting out of your comfort zone but what maya did nearly cost her her life. I’d never paddle out in something where I knew my life was in jeopardy…
As rider stated, laird is the father of tow ins. He pioneered that stuff, there for I’m gonna stick with his views.. 
I’ve heard that Maya isn’t exactly a well rounded surfer as in not really super competent in smaller waves, can stand up and ride but wouldn’t stand out in anyway at a local beachie. It would appear her cahones sre writing cheques her skill level really can’t cash.
Worth noting, she almost lost her life a few years ago at Teahupoo as well. Don’t get me wrong, she’s an incredible athlete, she charges harder than so many of the guys, but I just get the feeling she’s pushing the boundaries of her current skill set and experience/knowledge a bit too far. Maybe I’m not in a position to comment here, but I do trust Laird’s judgment.
Rider by the sounds of things I wouldn’t rate her as an athlete, just someone with perhaps more balls than sense or skill, she’s got way more balls than I do ha ha!
Mark Foo, Jay Moriarity, Mark Sainsbury…..
Just a couple of Pro Surfers that have had their lives ended in the Ocean!!!!!
You could probably make a list as long as ya arm that are the same!!!!!
And the ones that are still with us, I reckon that there’d be 99.9% that have had near death experiences!!!!! Including Laird!!!!!
Can’t see why she’s any different than any of us????? Except for her man parts like NBG said!!!!!
Rider by the sounds of things I wouldn’t rate her as an athlete, just someone with perhaps more balls than sense or skill, she’s got way more balls than I do ha ha!
I don’t think that’s fair. She’s obviously a very talented athlete. Just made two judgement errors that almost resulted in her losing her life. Even so, I still don’t think that’s fair to question her abilities as an athlete/surfer.
Mark Foo, Jay Moriarity, Mark Sainsbury…..
Just a couple of Pro Surfers that have had their lives ended in the Ocean!!!!!
You could probably make a list as long as ya arm that are the same!!!!!
And the ones that are still with us, I reckon that there’d be 99.9% that have had near death experiences!!!!! Including Laird!!!!!
Can’t see why she’s any different than any of us????? Except for her man parts like NBG said!!!!!
I agree with you. Big wave surfing is obviously a very risky sport.
I think Laird made those comments based on honestly; he obviously knows more about surfing (and the situation) than we do. I don’t think he was saying it to be mean, just calling it how he sees it. I’m sure there’s more to it than meets the eye. I’ve watched a lot of Laird’s movies in the past, and you can see safety and preparation is always paramount. He has so much experience in the ocean, and I feel his comments are a product of this.
I reckon that safety and preparation were also major considerations of the people that have died/had near death experiences too?????
Like I said, I’m pretty sure that even laird has had a few close calls himself!!!!!
And if he has, then it really just makes him a bit of a Hypocrite?????
Would you consider Shane Dorian to be an experienced Waterman????? I most definitely do!!!!!
I see your point. I don’t disagree with you either. There’s truth to both arguments.
And yes, Shane Dorian is probably my favourite surfer of all time. Absolute legend!
Lets all say we agree to disagree?
From what I understand she moved to Hawaii ten years ago and learnt to surf there. By even her own account she wasn’t a natural at it. She can surf but as I said I don’t think she would stand out especially not in Hawaii. I suppose she is an athlete in terms of training and prep, the general conception for me when someone i named an athlete is that they are very very good at something. She doesn’t appear to be very very good at surfing, she seems to be very very good at overcoming fear and going for it.
Everyone has had a friend who tries to overcome their lack of skill set with almost reckless abandon and daredevil attitude, it usually ends badly at some point
I could probably get myself to the bottom of a mountain in Alaska if I had to but TBH at my skill level I would probably have some serious misgivings when the the chopper flew away. What I’m getting at is just because I have the intestinal fortitude or “the balls” to do something doesn’t necessarily mean I should, running before you have learnt to walk isn’t a great idea.
All that leads into a debate on if people should follow their dreams or desires etc etc and at what point should you stop if you’re not only placing yourself in danger but others around you.
TC and RCJ have both made some positive remarks about Maya and her big wave surfing ability so it’s not like she has none, I guess only time will tell.
Watching the footage and exactly what happens it would appear as though her drowning was as a result of a number of factors all contriving to end in her demise.
1. She is unlucky enough to break her ankle out the back
2. She gets put through a gargantuan washing machine on her way to the shorebreak
3. Shock would have been setting in from the broken ankle
4. Burle struggling to get the ski in the right spot due to the surf, foam etc
5. Maya being exhausted unable to get onto the sled
6. Burle giving the ski a bootful with Maya on the rope to avoid another wave
7. Maya swallowing water and disappearing off the rope and drowning
It wasn’t like she fell on a wave and drowned as a result of that single incident, there was a process leading up to it that really fcuked her. An argument could be made that she didn’t really have to much control over the outcome at all so her skill level may not have come into much.
I have a mate who tow surfs and has tow surfed some pretty big heavy waves but to watch him surf your average 3ft beachie you wouldn’t think it would be a great idea at all. Kinda waiting for that to catch up to him, I don’t want it to but it seems inevitable.