Snowboard tuning
Hi guys,
Got a tuning/waxing kit for my birthday and I’m a little lost trying to figure out what what’s in it! Amazingly it didnt come with any sort of guide or instruction book or anything. I’ve had a look at the waxing tutorial and video and that all seems straight forward enough, but when it comes to the tuning side I’m a bit lost!
Kit includes-
*Edge tuner
*Tuning stone
*Wax scrapper
*Flat file
*Wire brush
*Mini iron
*Polish pad
*Ptex
*Carry case
This one in particular baffles me.. I’m assuming its an edge tuner but would not have a clue what to do with it! Any advice/tips would be greatly appreciated!
Yes, that bottom image is of the file and file guide (edge tuner).
Firstly, never use the file on the edge without deburring the edge first (that is, removing hardened spots on the edge caused by impacts).
To deburr, you want to use the tuning stone (should just look like a hard piece of rectangular stone). Basically this will clean up the edge to allow the file to travel over the edge and sharpen it, without causing damage to the file. You can use the stone by hand; keep it nice and flat against the edge and use long strokes from tip to tail. Check your progress after every couple of passes. Actually, the more often you do this, the less often you will need to use the file to remove steel.
Look at the file very closely; there should be a small arrow engraved into it somewhere. The file should only ever travel in the direction of the arrow, and you should only use a pulling motion. Here you will use the file guide. I assume your file guide is for the side edge only (most basic ones are). Make sure the file guide is nice and snug on the edge and the file is sitting nicely on the side edge. Use long, firm and even strokes from tip to tail, only pulling in the direction of the arrow on the file. Check your progress after each pass.
It would also be helpful if you removed everything from the kit and took a photo of it all nicely laid out. Then I can help you go through it all. 
I use the Edge Tuning Tool to take off any large burrs!!!!! Just use light pressure as you don’t really want to remove any of your side edge unless you want it sharpened!!!!!
I find that usin the Edge Tuning Tool stops you from de-tuning (Rounding off) your edges, as you can do accidently via a stone or diamond file!!!!!
That Edge Tool will be, as rider has said, for the side edges only!!!!!!
It will have 2 different angles, most likely a 90˚ and an 88˚ side?????
The 90˚ is good for a more obtuse angle (In relation to your base edge), and therefore be the choice for a park/freestyle type of rider/board, whereas the 88˚ will in effect give a more acute angle, and be better suited to a freeride/groomer style of rider/board!!!!!
Having said this, like I mentioned before, you don’t need to sharpen your edges that much (Maybe once a season, depending on how many days you ride and where you ride), so just remember to go easy as you can always take off more edge, but ya can’t put it back!!!!!
But def don’t be scared to use it as it’s really quite easy!!!!!!
Sweet! Thanks!
Havent really had much of a look at the edges of my board but will check it out tonight and will def. take a picture of all the things in the kit when I get home.
I must admit I’ve been too gutless to take the file to any of my boards in case I flux it up. I do de-burr and de-tune with the diamond and gummy stones, though.
I must admit I’ve been too gutless to take the file to any of my boards in case I flux it up. I do de-burr and de-tune with the diamond and gummy stones, though.
You can really “liven up” the edge with a coupe of very light passes with the edge tuning tool!!!!! Just make sure ya use the right angle, and ALWAYS stick with this same angle!!!!!! (That is unless ya really wanna change the characteristics of ya ride)
In order to really fark things up, youd have to take a flat bastard approach!!!!! Hahahaaa!!!!!
I must admit I’ve been too gutless to take the file to any of my boards in case I flux it up. I do de-burr and de-tune with the diamond and gummy stones, though.
You can really “liven up” the edge with a coupe of very light passes with the edge tuning tool!!!!! Just make sure ya use the right angle, and ALWAYS stick with this same angle!!!!!! (That is unless ya really wanna change the characteristics of ya ride)
In order to really fark things up, youd have to take a flat bastard approach!!!!! Hahahaaa!!!!!
I watched Snowboard Addiction’s tuning vid and the guy reckons those little edge tools are not very effective and he only uses his to sharpen his perspex scraper! He recommends a flat bastard (actually he recommends 3 of different coarsenesses) and that is in fact what I have at home, plus the L-shaped jig thing to hold it against to get the correct angle. I might have a practice on my old Burton Asym Air from 1993 that is still haunting my garage!
Those Edge Tools that are in those kits are just cut off section of a Flat Bastard File!!!!!
Those Edge Tools that are in those kits are just cut off section of a Flat Bastard File!!!!!
are they nice and shiny like my chrome bastard?
Those Edge Tools that are in those kits are just cut off section of a Flat Bastard File!!!!!
are they nice and shiny like my chrome bastard?
Nah, more the colour of my Chrome Dome!!!!!
Here are all the things..
and sure enough the edge tuner thingy has a 90deg. side and an 88deg. side.
Checked out the edges of my board and they look pretty good, kinda disappointed cos i wanted to try out all my new toys!
Also is it worth de-tuning the nose and tail of the board if this has never been done?
Thanks again!
Yep, def de-tune the nose and tail of ya board!!!!!
Ya don’t use those edges, so why have them sharp?????
Go to about 10mm past the contact points, into the effective edge!!!!! Start at a gradual de-tune at the 10mm mark, then go ballistic once ya past it!!!!!! Round them off good!!!!! 
Worth noting, some boards come with factory detunes these days. Best the check your board first. I used to detune all my boards but it’s definitely more common for them to come factory tuned now. You can usually check for yourself by getting a very close look and feel of the edge around the contact points. Use your nail to judge how sharp it is in certain points.
FYI, that brush is for cleaning the file. After you use the file, small bits of steel will get embedded in the file groves. Use the brush to remove the bits of steel to keep the file clean and working efficiently.
Worth checking to see if your tuning stone fits into the file guide (as they often do). If so, you might as well use the file guide when you use the stone on the side edge. It will obviously give the edge a more precise tune. Just freehand it on the base edge. Try to keep it nice and flat with the edge, and you don’t need to do this too often. If you can keep the base edge in good shape with the stone, you won’t need to take it into a tuning shop as often, and you won’t need to get a base grind as often. It’s pretty much impossible to sharpen the base edge without either changing the edge bevel or getting a base grind. So just try to keep it nice and smooth with that stone, whether you feel necessary.
My edges on my board are an absolute mess at the moment from numerous rock hits this season.
I’ve always used gummies but figured now was a good time to pull out the edge tuner I’ve never used.
First off this is the type of edge tool I have
It has 90deg on one side (which you can just see in the pic) and if you flip it over it has 88deg. Let’s say I plan to do the edges with the board lying down with the base side facing up.
Should the blue bit that runs at right angles to the file (the “handle” I guess) be run along the top or base of the board? Further to that say I wanted to use the 88deg should the 88 side be facing me or facing the ground? Finally my board has a mellow magnetraction edge. Is this likely to cause issues? (I’ve noted there’s special mag tuners out there, this isn’t one of them)
The blue bit that runs at right angles to the file should go flat against the base.
Where is the 88deg printed? I can’t really visualise what you’re describing, but it should be on the side that’s closest to the side of the guide that you’re using.
Always make sure the file runs in the direction of the arrow engraved into the side of the file. Remember, you can always take the file out and flip it around if needed.
The Magnetraction files are basically just a bit shorter so they can fit in around the curves. Your might work fine. It just depends how short the file is and how deep your curves are (all edges are curved anyway).