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^ Increasing your base bevel is also effective in alleviating catchy edges.
I dug this old thread up again because it’s nearly time to scrape down the boards and give them a de-tune. Looking at Mizu’s pic:
I reckon when riding forward normally, only the foward-facing part of the tail (ie. the part between red and blue lines in the tail) would have any risk of catching an edge or getting bumped out of line by uneven features in the snow. The only reason for de-tuning the same section at the nose end would be to avoid the same problem when riding switch. Does this sound right?
Also, is it better to use the diamond or gummy for de-tune rather than the file?
I think I understand your question correctly. No, it’s more important to detune the nose area rather than the tail. We detune to make entry into the turn smoother and less catchy. The edge near the nose of the board (assuming you’re riding regular) is the first to engage during a turn; you’re more likely to have the nose area “catch” then the tail (at least from my experience and understanding of it). Burton also used to recommend detuning the nose area for a longer part of the edge than the tail, which is in line with what I’m saying.
It depends on how much you want to detune it. If you really want to round off the edges, a file is your best bet (followed by a stone to polish). If you just want to take the bite off, I’d suggest you use a diamond stone followed by a soft gummy stone to polish.
I hope that helps you somewhat.
Hm ok. I guess I was thinking about all those times flat-basing on cat tracks when I’d feel the tail wandering then suddenly BAM I’d be flat on my back (why I never flat base on cat tracks anymore). I can see your point when actually turning, but is catching an edge while actually turning really an issue?
detuning wont fix that issue mate, you need to keep your board straight. No matter how much you detuned your edge, if your tail is wandering around when flat basing your going to stack (unless your using TBT maybe)
Hm ok. I guess I was thinking about all those times flat-basing on cat tracks when I’d feel the tail wandering then suddenly BAM I’d be flat on my back (why I never flat base on cat tracks anymore). I can see your point when actually turning, but is catching an edge while actually turning really an issue?
In my mind it’s the only issue. Personally I only detune at all for sliding rails. Proper technique pretty much eliminates the real need to detune the nose and tail. And now boards come factory detuned and there are rocker boards on the market which also helps significantly. If a cambered board didn’t come factory detuned, then yeh I would give it a slight detune at the contact points.
Flat basing: I think you just need to work on your technique and/or just need more time to become comfortable with it. You shouldn’t ever feel like the tail wants to catch. I’m guessing there are some stance issues we could work on with you (this isn’t a detuning issue at all).
fair enough, I have definitely had a stance issue for years that I’ve only really started to clear up recently.
Hm ok. I guess I was thinking about all those times flat-basing on cat tracks when I’d feel the tail wandering then suddenly BAM I’d be flat on my back . . .
^ Increasing your base bevel can help immensely.
When you’re flat basing, the key points are:
- Even weight on both feet (upper body perpendicular to the snowboard).
- Keep your legs loose for absorbing terrain changes. Hold your core strong.
- Keep your upper body aligned with the direction of travel. i.e. front shoulder pointing forward, back shoulder pointing backwards. Be like an arrow!
- Focus on the terrain ahead and keep that board flat on the snow!
I wrote this about three years ago: https://www.boardworld.com.au/snowboarding/content/category/straight-runs/ (watch the video as well).
cool, thanks. I do all that except point 3, which is what I have to keep working on. Comes from being a skier back in the dark ages I think!
I have to ask, though, if you’re riding a cat track which has had a billion people over it and is very hard-packed with those little hard edges and ruts that form, as you flat base across those, your trailing edge is going to knock against those and push the tail around a bit, right? And it’s then that a sharp trailing edge is going to bite into the hard pack and cause a yard sale.
Maybe, but detuning won’t help you either. The bumps you’re talking about are big and the amount of steel you’re taking of is minuscule in comparison.
Don’t let those bumps push you around. Push back at the snow. You are stronger, I promise you. Stay loose in your lower body but strong; sometimes you need to push back at the snow. It’s all about absorbing and exerting pressure at the right times.
Hm ok. I guess I was thinking about all those times flat-basing on cat tracks when I’d feel the tail wandering then suddenly BAM I’d be flat on my back . . .
^ Increasing your base bevel can help immensely.
Good point. Most boards come with at least a one degree base bevel and I would recommend maintaining that angle when you get a base grind (tell the technician what base angle you want).
That said, I still think if you’re feeling catchy on cat tracks (and you have a one degree base bevel for example), the issue is mostly technique related.
You can increase the base bevel more if you want. Advantage: less catchy, disadvantage: reduced edge hold.
i think you’re telling me I need to harden the f*ck up
hahaha
All you need to do is work on keeping your shoulders straight with the tips of your board and work the snow to prevent it pushing you around and you will be sweet
I dug this old thread up again because it’s nearly time to scrape down the boards and give them a de-tune. Looking at Mizu’s pic:
I reckon when riding forward normally, only the foward-facing part of the tail (ie. the part between red and blue lines in the tail) would have any risk of catching an edge or getting bumped out of line by uneven features in the snow. The only reason for de-tuning the same section at the nose end would be to avoid the same problem when riding switch. Does this sound right?
Also, is it better to use the diamond or gummy for de-tune rather than the file?
Mate, I would definitely detune tip and tail contacts!!!!!
On a full camber board or a C2 type hybrid (Camber/Rocker/Camber) you will definitely feel the board stop catchin an edge!!!!! The CamRock style hybrid (Rocker/Camber/Rocker) is virtually just a heavily detuned camber board that has an effective edge that can come into play when needed!!!!!