Yes! Nitro Signal Flux
So as of today I’ve updated my quiver with the addition of a Yes Tasmaniac 152 and a set of Flux SF45 binders. A huge thanks to Rider and Amine for setting this up for me! 
The Tasman is the very same one some of you might have ridden at last year’s Shred. So my gear is now 2012 Signal OG 157, 2011 Yes Tasman 152, 2011/12 Flux SF45 binders and 2011/12 Nitro Raiden Zero binders. I’m going to put the Flux binders on the Signal OG to match stiffness, and likewise the Nitros onto the Tasman. I have a few questions on set-up for the Boardworld expert panel; what stance width and angles should I try?
For the Signal, it has a natural set-back of 1cm (or 1 inch, depending on what you read), stance range of 52 to 64cm and no reference stance that I can find. Since this is my freeride stick, I plan on keeping the set-back, using a medium to narrow stance and having a forward bias on my angles.
For the Tasman, I plan on a centred stance, wider and some kind of duck-foot angles (I have never ridden duck before).
I am about 177cm (5’9” or 5’10”), 68kg, US size 9 boot. I think the angles on my old Burton custom are something like +15/+6.
If people could post some views on likely good stance widths and angles for me to try I’d appreciate it.
I’ll post photos once I get it all screwed together.
am i reading it wrong or are you going to run both your bindings on your signal facing forward?
Stance is really a preference thing. Honestly, just play with it, find what feels good.
A good technique for finding your stance ‘zone’ is to use the length from your elbow to the end of a closed fist - this is the minimum you should have a stance. Open your hands, and to the end of your fingers is now the maximum you should have it. Of course, it’s not quite that simple, but a good reference for people unsure about their stance.
If you feel like you’re standing tall, set it wider, if you feel like you look like a bad acting cowboy, bring it in. The narrower stance helps turn initiation, and wider is for stability. You’re probably looking for something between 20-23 inches.
Personally I ride a centered and wide stance on any board. Keeping it wide means I’m helping my balance - in the conditions at most hills here, one day can include ice, crud, sticky and powder, it’s a huge advantage to keep it wide.
Unless you’re racing slalom, the ‘extra ease’ in which the narrow stance helps initiate the turn is negligible these days.
As for angle, I’d suggest you keep a duck stance for both boards - unless you have a specific need for a forward stance. Duck foot helps with stability, and is more natural and comfortable. Seeing as you’re not used to it, just dial back the rear foot’s angle until it reaches maybe -5. Try +15/-6, after that if it feels good, push the back foot’s angle up to -9. But again, it’s largely preference, so play. You never want a combined angle of over 40 degrees (ignore the negative, +15/-9 = 24).
As you are gonna run ya Signal pretty much how ya been ridin, I would recommend that ya go all out with ya Tasmaniac and try wide as possible with a +15, -15 angle setup!!!!! Once ya have ya stance as wide as possible, ya can tweak it inwards a step at a time till ya find ya happy place!!!!!
The Tasman is a true-twin with centered stance, along with an asymmetrical side cut that is made to be ridden with a true duck, centered stance!!!!! ie a “mirrored” setting!!!!!
Once ya get the feel of the duck stance angles, I bet ya will follow suit with ya other boards!!!!! Maybe not to the extent of -15, but it will be pointin backwards!!!!!
i got chemical storm board and ds30 flux my stance is 22 centered, +12, -12
I’d say change it slowly since you have +15/+6 stance. Nothing wrong with a forward stance (Gigi and Terje are 2 pros that ride with a forward stance). Maybe change it to +15/0 then to +15/-6 etc until you find a comfortable angle and width.
thanks for all the replies, guys. It makes sense I think to start off with angles close to what I’ve been riding for years, then creep the back foot back into negative territory. Quite likely I’ll end up with something like +15/-6 which I read is a very common stance these days, maybe +15/-15 on the Tasman.
I’ll try SamNZ’s advice on width and maybe use a medium setting on the Signal and wide on the Tasman.
One other n00b question; the SF45s have swap-able high-backs, betweeen freeride and freestyle. How do I tell which is which? Is freestyle with the higher part towards the middle of the board? I’m really impressed with the quality of these bindings.
Hey Mud
I’ve never used this method myself cause I usually just keep adjusting my stance until it feels good, but I’m told a good place to start with stance width is:
Have a friend hold the board, and hold it against your back. You shoulders should JUST fit inside your bindings.
That should be a good basic stance width and you can make small adjustments from there.
Also with stance angles, like the others said, it’s personal preference BUT
NEVER use 0 degrees! It should always be +something/-something (or +/+ for alpine carve boarders)
Sports Scientists say that in snowboarding there is a lot of for/aft movement (true) and therefor the knees need to point forward or backwards so they can bend with the movement.
If you have a 0 degree binding, then all that pressure is going completely on the side of the knee… and that’s never a good thing.
Hey Mud
I’ve never used this method myself cause I usually just keep adjusting my stance until it feels good, but I’m told a good place to start with stance width is:Have a friend hold the board, and hold it against your back. You shoulders should JUST fit inside your bindings.
That should be a good basic stance width and you can make small adjustments from there.
Also with stance angles, like the others said, it’s personal preference BUT
NEVER use 0 degrees! It should always be +something/-something (or +/+ for alpine carve boarders)
Sports Scientists say that in snowboarding there is a lot of for/aft movement (true) and therefor the knees need to point forward or backwards so they can bend with the movement.
If you have a 0 degree binding, then all that pressure is going completely on the side of the knee… and that’s never a good thing.
Thanks, Andy, I do remember someone mentioning not to use zero degrees.
I’ll muck around with the width trying your method and Sam’s and see how I go. Might do a bit of pro carpet jibbing to test it out.
thanks for all the replies, guys. It makes sense I think to start off with angles close to what I’ve been riding for years, then creep the back foot back into negative territory. Quite likely I’ll end up with something like +15/-6 which I read is a very common stance these days, maybe +15/-15 on the Tasman.
I’ll try SamNZ’s advice on width and maybe use a medium setting on the Signal and wide on the Tasman.
One other n00b question; the SF45s have swap-able high-backs, betweeen freeride and freestyle. How do I tell which is which? Is freestyle with the higher part towards the middle of the board? I’m really impressed with the quality of these bindings.
Not a nOOb question at all!!!!!
If they haven’t stated it in the setup guide pamphlet, my money is the higher part toward centre (duck stance angles) will make the response better/stiffer, so I’d be usin that for freeride!!!!! Pretty sure they are already setup like that out of the box!!!!! If ya feel like ya wanna soften them up, then swap em over on the hill, no tools required!!!!!
* I have never swapped my Super Diamonds over to see, as I liked the stiffness straight outta the box!!!!! (High toward centre)
Oh, and when ya first do a carpet run with a wider stance it will feel like ya have gone too far, but thus will alter greatly once ya buckled up and ridin!!!!! (Just as EVERYONE feels this way for the first time when they try it!!!!! I had all sorts of dramas gettin my girls to ride with a wider stance as they complained it felt to wide, but now they wont swap back to a narrower stance for quids!!!!! They feel the extra stability it provides, and similar to increasin forward lean on ya highbacks, it also promotes the bending of the knees!!!!! Bend the Knees…..... Bend the Kneeeeeeeeesssss!!!!!)
Hangin to see some pics!!!!!
thanks for all the replies, guys. It makes sense I think to start off with angles close to what I’ve been riding for years, then creep the back foot back into negative territory. Quite likely I’ll end up with something like +15/-6 which I read is a very common stance these days, maybe +15/-15 on the Tasman.
I’ll try SamNZ’s advice on width and maybe use a medium setting on the Signal and wide on the Tasman.
One other n00b question; the SF45s have swap-able high-backs, betweeen freeride and freestyle. How do I tell which is which? Is freestyle with the higher part towards the middle of the board? I’m really impressed with the quality of these bindings.
The freestyle high backs should be flatter against the calf/boot and softer flex. The freeride ones will cup a bit more and have more stiffness for better response. I’m guessing anyway. If it’s not as obvious as that you may need to call up a store who stocks them/visit to find out.
Some FLUX models have a swappable asymmetric highback!!!!! ie it’s still the same component, ya can just interchange the left and right to give a different flex pattern!!!!!
You can see it in this pic!!!!!
Some FLUX models have a swappable asymmetric highback!!!!! ie it’s still the same component, ya can just interchange the left and right to give a different flex pattern!!!!!
You can see it in this pic!!!!!
Oh I see now! From that I’d say the high bit on the outside is for freeride as it will provide more leverage for turn initiations, having it on the inside is freestyle as it allows more movement for tweaks.
some pics, sorry about the quality, had to shoot indoors.
The blue bindings look pretty good on the Yes. Would be awesome to get a matching red right binding for the blue part of the board!
Nice!!!!! 
Ya piked out on the +15, -15 though!!!!!
Have ya rotated ya highback on the front binder????? (Aligned with heel edge) Hard to tell from the pics!!!!!
Yeah I’ve gone +15/-3 on both for now. I dug out my old stick and it was set at +18/0 (naughty!), so +15/-3 shouldn’t feel like such a huge step. Will tweak when I get to the snow. I’ve gone second widest stance on the Yes, and a slightly wide stance on the Signal.
Yeah, have rotated the highbacks, and just finished adjusting the straps so they sit right in the middle, and also the foward-lean. I’m guessing I wouldn’t want to crank too much lean on the freestyle board? I was midway through stickering when the wife accused me of being a 20 year-old 