New GoPro Hero 2
I’ll be going for the GP2 once I’m over in Whistler - was impressed with the footage from last season and also the ability to capture stills constantly through the day. Had one setup at the base of the kicker out at booterville and it got some great shots through the day.
how does that work? does it detect motion or just on a fixed timer?
It’s just on a fixed timer - so end of the day you’re left with a tonne of photos, not all are usable but theres always a few which are worth keeping.
heres what the GoPro website has to say
CAPTURE MODES: Single, 10 Photo Burst, Time-Lapse*, Self-Timer
* Now supports time-lapse photo every 0.5 seconds. Requires Class 10 speed SD Card
On the HD Hero it’s every 2, 5, 10, 30, 60 Seconds
the new gopro should handle bright whites better (fingers crossed)
Unfortunately not what I hear.
Same with blacks being to dark, just look at finney’s photo’s from the GPhero. From what I see finney, I disagree with with your assumption that they will print well-just to dark in the shadows. For a alright print it would need processing like any photo taken on auto settings in the snow.
Any pro footage (AoF/riders post of skidiving) has been enhanced with expensive software + additional costly plug-ins.
Every time I see spaz has posted in this thread I check hoping he has bought the drift HD and posted raw footage to help make my decision easier! 
^Note: none of the above cameras in the caparison have 1080p sensors (their footage is upscaled before saving to the memory card-reducing quality)
does the drift have that slo-mo mode the GoPro has?
Yes! 50 & 60 fps @ 720p
But you do need a high end editing program (and knowledge to use it) to take advantage of higher frame rates (fps) to utilise those frame rates for slow-mo.
Generic programs like iMovie will convert 60fps to 24/30fps (PAL/NTSC) during capture - making the use of those modes a waste of time and a marketing ploy to convince you to buy the camera because pro videographers are exited by the product having that ability.
As a consumer - pay little attention to fps (unless it’s under 24fps) if your editing it yourself.
If you want to create sensational slow-mo footage shot at 50/60/120fps get your raw footage edited by a pro who has invested 10’s of thousands of dollars in software & hardware. ie: me (I’m cheaper than anyone)
All the footage I see by consumers (and mostly use as a pro) is shot at 24/25/30fps. It is possible to buy camera’s under $100 that do this. Slow-mo at that frame rate can be 75% without noticeable difference. 60fps is really slow, 120fps is super slow.
Build quality, sensor ability (CMOS) are important but like any photography equipment the LENS is the most important consideration.
Fair call spaz - that day was shocking for light anyways so would have had to do something with the photos no matter what same as any normal point and shoot camera. sunny day wouldn’t be an issue at all.
I’m not a perfectionist when it comes to photos so for someone like me it’ll be just fine.
Every time I see spaz has posted in this thread I check hoping he has bought the drift HD and posted raw footage to help make my decision easier!
I just don’t have the finances atm. The first person to contact me through BW can get a DriftHD at wholesale + postage (for R&D purposes).
Here’s a snow video from http://driftinnovation.com but be careful what you look at! Some footage is from the HD170 some shot on a digital video camera. PoleCam footage IS DriftHD.
Every time I see spaz has posted in this thread I check hoping he has bought the drift HD and posted raw footage to help make my decision easier!
I just don’t have the finances atm. The first person to contact me through BW can get a DriftHD at wholesale + postage (for R&D purposes).
Here’s a snow video from http://driftinnovation.com but be careful what you look at! Some footage is from the HD170 some shot on a digital video camera. PoleCam footage IS DriftHD.
Haha no worries mate, I suspect it’s probably hard to go wrong with either option I just know you’d put up some decent footage to compare againts. Thanks for the video link, I’ve watched it a few times but wasn’t sure which drift camera was used. I’ll have another look later.
Would love to take you up on the purchase offer, unfortunately I can’t purchase just yet as I was hoping to claim duty free and as far as I know I need to wait until a certain date to do that.
Skiing: good showing of low light transition to bright
Skiing: good showing of low light transition to bright
Thanks mate going to take a look at it now.
I don’t know what you’ll save going duty free.
Almost $150 saving through me.
As yet I haven’t got around to sorting myself out as a GP dealer (lots of money lost there) but I do deal in Contour, Drift and VIO.
Before this year I didn’t want to support GP for the benefit of supplying pro-quality but now…..
It’s just paperwork I need to do so I can hook up another importer. I’m so slack!!!!
No wonder I’m self employed and broke - nah, it’s because my priority is shredding and being a dad over making money and supplying BWM cheap GoPro’s.
And making videos and working on my car and doing other paperwork…........
And posting on boardworld!
Ok you’ve got me interested, I’ve just sent you a PM.
Haha I agree coming from a fellow self employed person who works in schools as I couldn’t live without my holidays…work to live, don’t live to work.
Here’s a great review on the DriftHD
Fair call spaz - that day was shocking for light anyways so would have had to do something with the photos no matter what same as any normal point and shoot camera. sunny day wouldn’t be an issue at all.
I’m not a perfectionist when it comes to photos so for someone like me it’ll be just fine.
Yep, I picked that up finney (knew you’d know I wasn’t having a go at you).
On days like that in the snow it’s possible to take a better photo with a DSLR than on sunny days - more even lighting. P&S camera’s can be manipulated in the settings to do similar but I have no idea if it’s possible with GP.
If I remember I’ll download those shots later and process them a little for better printing results so you can see the difference.
Here’s a great review on the DriftHD
Nice another one to have a look over when I get home. Hopefully soon enough I may be able to provide some of my own footage 
^Note: none of the above cameras in the caparison have 1080p sensors (their footage is upscaled before saving to the memory card-reducing quality)
does the drift have that slo-mo mode the GoPro has?
Yes! 50 & 60 fps @ 720p
But you do need a high end editing program (and knowledge to use it) to take advantage of higher frame rates (fps) to utilise those frame rates for slow-mo.
Generic programs like iMovie will convert 60fps to 24/30fps (PAL/NTSC) during capture - making the use of those modes a waste of time and a marketing ploy to convince you to buy the camera because pro videographers are exited by the product having that ability.
As a consumer - pay little attention to fps (unless it’s under 24fps) if your editing it yourself.
If you want to create sensational slow-mo footage shot at 50/60/120fps get your raw footage edited by a pro who has invested 10’s of thousands of dollars in software & hardware. ie: me (I’m cheaper than anyone)All the footage I see by consumers (and mostly use as a pro) is shot at 24/25/30fps. It is possible to buy camera’s under $100 that do this. Slow-mo at that frame rate can be 75% without noticeable difference. 60fps is really slow, 120fps is super slow.
Build quality, sensor ability (CMOS) are important but like any photography equipment the LENS is the most important consideration.
awesome info, thanks very much, Spaz. I had thought it was just a case of importing the 60fps footage into iMovie and setting the playback speed to 50%. I would have been in for a rude shock!