Snowboard Edge Angle Questions… Help
Yeah, that’s it.
I’ve never found it necessary to detune the nose and tail areas. They are elevated off the snow so I don’t really see a point. The contact points (the area between the blue and red lines) are the first part of the edge to engage during a turn, which is why we detune them.
I guess I was a bit surprised there wasn’t also light de-tuning 1cm from the blue line towards the tip/tail. I guess when you’re cranking a turn that part shouldn’t really be in touch with the snow.
Yeah, that’s it.
I’ve never found it necessary to detune the nose and tail areas. They are elevated off the snow so I don’t really see a point. The contact points (the area between the blue and red lines) are the first part of the edge to engage during a turn, which is why we detune them.
It doesn’t really hurt to de-tune all of the way around, cause it isn’t used, and companies such as Lib-Tech haven’t even got a metal edge at all in these areas!!!!!!
It’s a good place to “play” around with the file/stone in order to see the effects of what each tool can do!!!!!!
Yeah, that’s it.
I’ve never found it necessary to detune the nose and tail areas. They are elevated off the snow so I don’t really see a point. The contact points (the area between the blue and red lines) are the first part of the edge to engage during a turn, which is why we detune them.
I guess I was a bit surprised there wasn’t also light de-tuning 1cm from the blue line towards the tip/tail. I guess when you’re cranking a turn that part shouldn’t really be in touch with the snow.
From this point around is where I actually give the edge a hard de-tune, as you don’t want it grippin at all!!!!!
I just find it a waste of time. Burton also has the nose and tail ‘Scoops’ on some of their freestyle boards. Same thing really. I can see the benefit if someone is a serious jibber and/or really presses hard onto the nose and tail. For regular riding, I just don’t see a point. You’re right though, it certainly can’t hurt.
@chucky: Cuz most ppl ended up messing up their board. Unless you’re always hitting rails or do GS slalom type race, I don’t think you should change the default 1 degree bevel.
I’m not planning on changing the 1 degree base edge the only thing I might do is increase the side edge for additional edge hold if i need it and possibly detune or increase bevel edge by the tips and tail to prevent the edge from engaging none intentionally
Hey Lester,
If you can keep your edges clean, burr-free, and sharp, it will be fine to keep it at the factory bevels. You will get more performance out of your edge by regularly maintaining them and keeping them sharp, through use of a gummy stone and diamond stone, rather than changing the bevel to a sharper angle but not regularly maintaining it.
I would suggest giving your board a go with how the edge is now, with a very slight detune at the contact points using a gummy stone (if you use a gummy stone, it’s almost impossible to damage the edge or detune it too much - it just takes a bit of the bite off the edge), and seeing if this gives you sufficient edge hold, which I suspect it will. If so, you just need to maintain that edge. Buy a gummy stone, but a fine diamond stone, and possibly an edge guide. Go over your edges after every few days; de-burr, keep it clean, and sharp.
I’ll get back to you today on the factory detune on the Burton Custom. I’m almost certain the contact points will be factory detuned.
thank you for the tips, will do last thing i want to do is over do the detuning, as for the sharpening I remember you saying that the custom has a 1 degree base bevel and 1 degree in the side edge making it a 90 degree correct?? just making sure so I use the correct setting on the file/diamond stone guide
Confirmed by Burton: the boards are factory detuned.
thank you
I agree with rider, unless you’re doing crazy jibs, butters, and presses detuning all the way around the nose and tail seems unnecessary. But again it doesn’t hurt if you want to do it.
thank you for the tips, will do last thing i want to do is over do the detuning, as for the sharpening I remember you saying that the custom has a 1 degree base bevel and 1 degree in the side edge making it a 90 degree correct?? just making sure so I use the correct setting on the file/diamond stone guide
That’s correct.
I just find it a waste of time. Burton also has the nose and tail ‘Scoops’ on some of their freestyle boards. Same thing really. I can see the benefit if someone is a serious jibber and/or really presses hard onto the nose and tail. For regular riding, I just don’t see a point. You’re right though, it certainly can’t hurt.
One good reason to take the sharpness off the nose and tail, is wear on gloves and cuts to hands and other boards/things/people that ya might happen to “bump” into as well!!!!!
Ya just have to ask fast eddie what that feels like!!!!! 
That was a toeside edge. Just what I heard. 
I heard that it went shinside pretty quick though!!!!!
But you’d know more about that than anyone else!!!!! 
Just going to add something here.
Detuning is more about eliminating those little edge catches when you are riding a flatter base. Think straight lining a groomer or cruising a mellow cat track trying to keep speed.
The idea is that your board won’t try to turn as the contact points plow through little bumps and undulations. By detuning you eliminate the little catches and jerks a board does when cruising a slower speeds. If you detune 2cm from an entire effective edge/contact length of 113cm (small board) and notice the difference in edge hold I would be impressed.
Last season I had my first reverse camber board (t.Rice 161) and thought I would leave the detune because of the banana would keep the tip and tail up a bit. I rode for a few weeks and never felt comfortable bombing on the only groomer in Gulmarg, I also noticed the board seemed catchy when I was cruising through some rutted flatter sections through the trees. After finally realising that I hadn’t detuned. I gave the tip and tail a good going over with a file then a gummy stone to clean up the burrs. Instant change in the way the board handled in the conditions I just described.
just some thoughts
Spot on with that take, Andy!!!!!
Even though I de-tuned my 161 TRice, I still found it unsociable on cat tracks and flat basin!!!!! Prob why I got rid of it????? I think that it would’ve been great in powder though!!!!!