Edge sharpening and snowboard waxing how often? how?
You’ll mainly see dry patches forming along the edges of ya base first, so just a few drops of wax mainly along those dry areas is all that’s needed, and approx every 3 days ridin is pretty much right!!!!!
So going over spots that aren’t dry patchy looking, wouldn’t that just cause me to be doing more waxing in spots instead of just doing the whole board when I notice any dry patches??
Edges, I use a gummy stone to take off fine burs, but a diamond stone or bastard file for bigger gouges, followed by a light run over with ya file guide(bugger all pressure)!!!!!
As to how often and when, I would just use my finger tips to judge when sharpening ya edges is warranted!!!!! It won’t need to be done that often and nor do you want to, as there is only so many times it can be done before renderin the edge useless!!!!!
Remember to go easy, and if possible practice on an old board first!!!!! But by all means go in confident as its really quite easier than it all sounds!!!!!
Good tip will keep that in mind last thing I want to do make the edge useless
You’ll mainly see dry patches forming along the edges of ya base first, so just a few drops of wax mainly along those dry areas is all that’s needed, and approx every 3 days ridin is pretty much right!!!!!
So going over spots that aren’t dry patchy looking, wouldn’t that just cause me to be doing more waxing in spots instead of just doing the whole board when I notice any dry patches??
If you just drip the wax onto the dry areas, but still iron the whole surface of the base, this will ensure that your not wastin wax!!!!! You will find that its quite easy to get carried away when ya meltin wax onto the base for the first few times that ya do it, and good wax can be expensive when ya scrapin off most of what ya just put on!!!!!
By ironin the whole base you will be openin up the pores, and spreadin any excess around to where it is required!!!!!
A couple of tips incase ya didn’t know,
Never wax a cold wet board straight after you’ve got off the hill - Always let it dry out and get to at least room temp before ya go at it!!!!!
Once waxed, let the base cool for at least an hour or back down to room temp before you scrape off the excess!!!!!
Always wax in a well ventilated area and use a mask when usin flourinated waxes!!!!! (The fumes are TOXIC)
Always set the iron to the wax manafacturers temp settin, and if the wax starts to smoke, turn the iron down!!!!!
Hope any of this helps, Lester!!!!!
You’ll mainly see dry patches forming along the edges of ya base first, so just a few drops of wax mainly along those dry areas is all that’s needed, and approx every 3 days ridin is pretty much right!!!!!
So going over spots that aren’t dry patchy looking, wouldn’t that just cause me to be doing more waxing in spots instead of just doing the whole board when I notice any dry patches??
If you just drip the wax onto the dry areas, but still iron the whole surface of the base, this will ensure that your not wastin wax!!!!! You will find that its quite easy to get carried away when ya meltin wax onto the base for the first few times that ya do it, and good wax can be expensive when ya scrapin off most of what ya just put on!!!!!
By ironin the whole base you will be openin up the pores, and spreadin any excess around to where it is required!!!!!
A couple of tips incase ya didn’t know,
Never wax a cold wet board straight after you’ve got off the hill - Always let it dry out and get to at least room temp before ya go at it!!!!!
Once waxed, let the base cool for at least an hour or back down to room temp before you scrape off the excess!!!!!
Always wax in a well ventilated area and use a mask when usin flourinated waxes!!!!! (The fumes are TOXIC)
Always set the iron to the wax manafacturers temp settin, and if the wax starts to smoke, turn the iron down!!!!!
Hope any of this helps, Lester!!!!!
It really does thank you Mizu Kuma
from what i’ve read, you can just use the diamond stone to sharpen. don’t use the file unless you want to change angles or really give the edges a major tune-up.
That’s it. Regular maintenance with a gummy stone and diamond stone will keep your edges nice an sharp. Only use a file when you really have to, i.e. edges are too rounded and you actually have to peel steel to get them sharp again.
I generally wax my boards every 3-4 days.
I’m about the same. Unless I know the next day is going to be an epic powder day. In that case, I always wax the night before.
Lester, have you read this waxing guide?
https://www.boardworld.com.au/snowboarding/content/category/snowboard-waxing-guide/
In a similar sort of vein of topic, does anyone ever get a base grind done on their boards?. I know back when i first started it was all the rage to get it done before the season started, but base tech has come along way since then so im wondering if its still something to consider getting done. I have a few little knicks and stuff in bottom of my board, nothing that requires any serious repair, i just wouldnt mind smoothing it right out and having my board in tip top condition before i head over to japan.
The only real reasons to get a base grind are if the base if no longer flat (base high or edge high) and/or your base edge is in serious need of a sharpen. Yes, it will remove surface scratches and minor cosmetic damage, but all of that can be fixed quickly with a p-tex gun by your local store. I wouldn’t go base grinding just to fix a few scratches.
waxing frequency depends on the type of snow you’re riding, and also the resort you’re at. If you’re riding fluffy powder, then the wax will last longer than in spring slush. Also, if your resort has flat areas where you need to keep your speed up then it’s a good idea to wax well. If not, well, you can always wait til your base gets ‘hairy’
Thanx Gamblor, you mentioned that I can wait till the base gets hairy? What exactly would that look like, I know about the dry stops that’s easy to look for but hairy hmm
the base gets hairy when it’s really dry. You’ll know it when you see it
The only real reasons to get a base grind are if the base if no longer flat (base high or edge high) and/or your base edge is in serious need of a sharpen. Yes, it will remove surface scratches and minor cosmetic damage, but all of that can be fixed quickly with a p-tex gun by your local store. I wouldn’t go base grinding just to fix a few scratches.
doesn’t it also “re-texture” your base? I didn’t even know bases had a texture until recently…
Yeah, I guess it does. It puts a ‘structure’ into the base, creating channels running the entire length of the board. These channels enable water to run off more effectively, thus making the board faster. There are different structuring patterns for different snow conditions; this doesn’t make much difference to the average rider. It becomes important when racing at a high level. You also need a structuring brush if you want the full benefits of a base structure.
Yeah, I guess it does. It puts a ‘structure’ into the base, creating channels running the entire length of the board. These channels enable water to run off more effectively, thus making the board faster. There are different structuring patterns for different snow conditions; this doesn’t make much difference to the average rider. It becomes important when racing at a high level. You also need a structuring brush if you want the full benefits of a base structure.
yeah “structure” was the word I was after. Does the structuring brush cut into the base material or just the wax?
A coarse nylon brush cuts into the wax and exposes the channels. A brass or any metal brush cleans out the p-tex fuzz from the channels, after the base grind. For normal use, get a nylon brush.
yeah got one of those
After scraping I buff with 3M Scotchbrite, usin in a direction from tip <> tail that also puts a fine ‘structure’ into the wax itself!!!!!!
