Snowboard Edge Angle Questions… Help
aj2thec and deano, we already had this argument in another thread. These guys take AK gnar riding to the next level so they need all the extra tuning
really?
cool,cool
aj2thec and deano, we already had this argument in another thread. These guys take AK gnar riding to the next level so they need all the extra tuning
Well we have to be able to hold an edge while we pause to adjust our f-stops!!!!!
Imagine a board’s contact points are the face of a clock. If 9.00 is the nose of the board, 12.00 would be the front toeside contact point (for a regular rider). From 7.30 to 10.30, my edge is literally rounded - then it tapers to ‘slightly dull’ at 11.55. Between there and 12.05 it starts to become ‘sharpish’ (transitioning on the 12.00 mark), then at 12.15 it’s ‘razor sharp’ all the way to 11.45 on the arc of the rear contact points. Same goes for each of the other 3 contact points.
I also factor in the overall bevel angle into that - so at 12.00 it’s 90 degrees, tapering to 88 or 89 degrees (depending on the board) at 12.30ish.
The most important thing to consider is that your board shouldn’t be sharp enough to engage an edge anywhere between 6.00 and 12.00 on the nose of your board (vice versa for the tail) - but the exact point after that where it really sharpens up is up to the individual.
That make sense?
Chucky I gotta say this a damn good explanation but I still got a few questions
the whole 7:30 to : 10:30 no questions there, and make perfect sense, the “tapers to a slightly dull” i completely get the concept but what you recommend for making that transition from rounded over to slightly dull (10:30-11:55) i mean just using the file as I would for rounding out the nose and tail just not at much or adding a few degrees on the base edge ? as for the 11:55-12:05 how you recommend making it sharpish? Im thinking of a new board or a sharp 90 degree with 1 degree base should I also use a file (little risky i think) or increase the base edge slightly .5 to 1 degree ? and to be honest in that 3ish cm length of the (11:55-12:05) that gonna be tough no matter what kind of file you using.
@chucky: Cuz most ppl ended up messing up their board. Unless you’re always hitting rails or do GS slalom type race, I don’t think you should change the default 1 degree bevel.
I’m not planning on changing the 1 degree base edge the only thing I might do is increase the side edge for additional edge hold if i need it and possibly detune or increase bevel edge by the tips and tail to prevent the edge from engaging none intentionally
Hey Lester,
If you can keep your edges clean, burr-free, and sharp, it will be fine to keep it at the factory bevels. You will get more performance out of your edge by regularly maintaining them and keeping them sharp, through use of a gummy stone and diamond stone, rather than changing the bevel to a sharper angle but not regularly maintaining it.
I would suggest giving your board a go with how the edge is now, with a very slight detune at the contact points using a gummy stone (if you use a gummy stone, it’s almost impossible to damage the edge or detune it too much - it just takes a bit of the bite off the edge), and seeing if this gives you sufficient edge hold, which I suspect it will. If so, you just need to maintain that edge. Buy a gummy stone, but a fine diamond stone, and possibly an edge guide. Go over your edges after every few days; de-burr, keep it clean, and sharp.
I’ll get back to you today on the factory detune on the Burton Custom. I’m almost certain the contact points will be factory detuned.
a lot of the articles around the web say to detune hard around the tip and tail and just a light detune +/- 1 inch around the contact points. I guess if you were gonna carve and just carve you could skip the light de-tune at the contact points.
A light detune at the contact points doesn’t really sacrifice carving performance, in my opinion. As long as you keep the rest of the edge sharp, proper carving engages the full length of the edge. A couple of cm at the contact points with a slight detune isn’t going to make much, if any difference. The key is keeping the rest of your edge burr-free and sharp.
Decent edges are fairly tough, so it requires a bit of effort to round one out - therefore it’s a feel thing. Just work over the areas around your contact points slowly and meticulously, constantly checking with your fingertips.
Yep, that’s it. Unless you are using a file to detune, which I wouldn’t recommend anyway, it’s hard to damage the edge. Keep checking as chucky suggested. I use my finger nail to scrape on the edge to see how sharp it is. Rub your nail perpendicular to the edge at approx a 45 degree angle, and note how easily it shaves your nail.
These guys take AK gnar riding to the next level so they need all the extra tuning
Hellz yeah!!!
Recently crowned 11 time ‘Shaun White Wii Balance Board’ World Champion yo!
EDIT: Oh, wait - it seems they made a mistake with the scoring on that last one, and jumped the gun a little on the results. Bugger.
Confirmed by Burton: the boards are factory detuned.
a lot of the articles around the web say to detune hard around the tip and tail and just a light detune +/- 1 inch around the contact points. I guess if you were gonna carve and just carve you could skip the light de-tune at the contact points.
A light detune at the contact points doesn’t really sacrifice carving performance, in my opinion. As long as you keep the rest of the edge sharp, proper carving engages the full length of the edge. A couple of cm at the contact points with a slight detune isn’t going to make much, if any difference. The key is keeping the rest of your edge burr-free and sharp.
Hence the 10-15mm (Roughly 1/2”) into the effective edge is what ya really want to de-tune!!!!! The other 10-15mm really turns into a more than that, as it’s best to round the whole edge all of the way around the nose/tail until ya reach back to the opposite side of the nose/tail contact point!!!!!!
If ya do accidently do more, what ya have really done is shorten the length of the effective edge, which in effect makes ya board ride “shorter”!!!!!!
so you’re dulling hard from the blue line to the tips, then light between red and blue lines, then light or not at all between red lines?
Yeah, that’s it.
I’ve never found it necessary to detune the nose and tail areas. They are elevated off the snow so I don’t really see a point. The contact points (the area between the blue and red lines) are the first part of the edge to engage during a turn, which is why we detune them.
Yeah, that’s it.
I’ve never found it necessary to detune the nose and tail areas. They are elevated off the snow so I don’t really see a point. The contact points (the area between the blue and red lines) are the first part of the edge to engage during a turn, which is why we detune them.
And I always detune the tip and tail as you can get little grabs which can unbalance you a bit from the sharpness. It doesn’t really make a difference but in the 1 case where it does, you might prefer no grab there.
And while Burton (and others) factory detune, it’s still sharp… So I still get my file and make them pretty darn blunt 